Thanks for the dimensions. I cut and pasted b30 mega-squirt in the search and couldn't find anything except the web site of the guy who was eating his receipts and spent $4-5-6? thousand on his b20 1800 engine rebuild. I did find a web site that sells stand alone mass air flow injection systems for V8 motors, which sounds like the way to go, but they cost $2-3thousand. I'll have to try e-mailing them latter to find out if/how to add one over the d-jet just for fun.

What is a white motor and 600 trans?

I did find some information on jeep dana44's though. Too many different variations of rear ends to know what to look for.

I also looked at the 1800 guys from England who put a Ford engine into an 1800, but I can't understand why they installed the engine so far back into the passenger compartment. I tried to E-mail them from this computer at home, but I guess my account doesn't work. I'll have to try next week at work. They said that they did it to avoid the suspension and keep weight distribution better. I guess the extra 100# of the bigger rear end would help that though.

I think that farther forward will would work in my situation. Right know, I have the same size swaybars front and back. I also have stiffer rear springs than in front (cut-down tappered wire volvo progressive springs in front and cut-down front 70' Impala spings in back (the only things I could find in my local junk yard that where a little bigger then the rear tapered ones at the time)).

You might think that this setup would be a recipy for disaster, but with the weight distribution and two inches wider tires in back, it understeers in very slow corners like a parking lot race, and is very neutral at twice the posted speed limit in any other speed corner. It is very fun to 4 wheel drift on mountain roads and interstate on ramps (never had it on a real race track).

Back to the front spindles though; Maybe I should just try building my own. Late GM Camero's have a bolt on front hub with 5x4 3/4" bolt pattern with 12" disks like a front wheel driver. I can draw on AutoCAd and I know a local plastic injection company that has cnc computer mills that could wittle out a flat 3/8" plate to which I could weld on the ball joint and tie-rod bosses. This plate would also be cut to mount the brake calipers and if I mounted two Wilwood dinalite II calipers ($120 ea.), I could have unbelievable braking and keep the dual line volvo braking system for far less than their top of their line system. (just a thought)

Also, If I built my spindles with no king-pin inclination, the wheel mounting surface to ball joint distance was 4", and I had a set of 17x10" billet wheels made with 9" backspacing, the center of the wheel would be inline with the ball joints (0 scrub radius) and the wheel would't lean out on top when turning. This should mean that I wouldn't need very much camber gain in the suspension with a stiff suspension.

Anybody interested in what I have dreamt up for the independant rear suspension?

By the way, my wife won't let me say exactly were we live in case any Volvo purists want to hunt me down for what I did to a 24,000 mile 1800, but it is in the center of the scandinavian population of the north american continent and next fall when we have the Norsk-host-fest, I will hijack some Swede and have them interpret KG Trimning's web site for me.

James