Another Bruce here.

Sorry you're laid up for now. Good that you're able to get on the web.

For a no-start car, you probably ought to check things out step by step. Check the state of tune up (and look inside distrib. cap). Go over the fuses; twirl them in the holders to cut through the corrosion. If they are the gray/white metal type (rapid-corrosion) consider replacing them all with copper/brass.

Anyway, failure of the in-tank pump won't usually shut you down. Main pump will work harder to suck the fuel out of tank but car will generally run. Especially if tank is not low. But the extra strain probably causes a shortened lifespan for the main pump, so replace the in-tank stuff if it's not working. More on that further down here.

Bruce/lucid will likely repost the fuse #s to jump to test if the relay is your problem - and other details. On my '89 it's fuse #4 + #6 - jump the left sides of those two fuse holder terminals and the pumps will run. Or you can go ahead and swap in a known good fuel pump relay and see if that does the trick. Check at fcpgroton.com to see which year cars used the same relay. I think the '86 parts car relay is the same but check first.

'89 and later have a crank position sensor (aka rpm sensor) on rear of engine, approx where head meets block. These go bad over time - usually it's the wires that go bad. It's a shielded cable a lot like TV coax; when the sheathing is compromised there's no stable signal to the computer and it cuts off fuel + ignition. The cps cable runs across firewall to a connector; if you see a yellow label then it's the original and should be replaced. If you stand at passenger fender and peer behind head with a flashlight you can barely see the wire going down onto the sensor location. If wire looks frayed or compromised then replace it - sensor comes complete with wire, one unit.

Fuel tank work - you access pump + fuel level sender from top of tank. For sedan, go to top shelf in trunk, pull up carpet, remove access cover plate (2 screws). Top of tank is below that. For wagons, remove plywood carpeted cargo floor panel. Lift rear part, find one screw on each side. Drop rear seat back, unscrew floor's piano hinge; about 6 screws. Pull floor out of the way to get at access panel, top of tank is below that.

Tank has what looks like a top cap which has terminals + connectors for fuel and electrical going in and out of tank. It usually is a rusty mess by the time it needs service. The actual level sender and pump were working on the two I repaired, it was the ruined connections at top of tank that caused pump and fuel level sender to stop working.

What looks like a top cap with terminals is actually the top of the fuel gauge level sender. It's all one unit: cover cap, sender, fuel line connections, wire leads for pump and sender. Pump is attached to this assembly. So to replace the rotten terminals you replace the fuel level sender. They do a good job of plating the thing; after 10-15 years of cold fuel running through warm connectors the condensation rusts it away.

If you do in-tank work yourself I strongly recommend the IPD tool for the infamous bung nut. I bit the bullet and paid $40 with rush shipping and don't regret a penny of it. Nut removes and reattaches easily as many times as you want.
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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, quad horns. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.