Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Engine lifting & Removal/Replacement Tips 120-130

I use the center head bolts. I have made two small brackets from short lengths of angle iron, one hole for the bolts, another on the vertical for shackles that go to my lifting tackle. I pull the engine separately. On the center bolts the balance point is very close. When installing the head I assemble it with the brackets in place. The rocker shaft fits with them in place so I can do the valve adjustment. After installation of the engine I remove the bolts one at a time and retorque. You may have noticed that Elring advises a half turn loose, and then torque to spec, when re-torquing the bolts. Also any one bolt will not allow the gasket to move. I've never had a gasket failure, and I warranty my work so that's important.
On the OHC Volvos I use the center two intake manifold studs, with the same brackets. This hangs the engine at point of balance, and also at the correct angle.
I do not advise using a bolt at either end UNLESS you use a very long chain in between so that the angle is very steep in the bight to the hook. If the chain is flat the vector will create huge strain on the bolts and that may pull a stud or break the chain. Rigging 101 stuff.






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New Engine lifting & Removal/Replacement Tips [120-130]
posted by  mario_e  on Sun Apr 8 03:28 CST 2007 >


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