You might be able to force the cable back after disconnecting it.

Spray it with PBBlaster. Grasp it with a pair of pliers about 1/8" from the end of the housing. Push it back. If it moves do it again and continue the process.

At this point you have three options:

1. Continue pushing back until it reaches its totally retracted position. Leave it there and do not reattach it to the spool. In this position it will shift way too soon if you start in D. However if you want to shift it manually through the gears all the time it is workable.... OR

2. Push it back some and then test drive it. The further back you push it the less delayed the shifts will be. Only push it back as far as the position that gives you the shift points you want. When you have it right bend the cable 180 degrees and zip tie it to the housing; leaving it detached from the spool.... OR

3. After pushing it back all the way disconnect the housing from the bracket and lift the end of the cable up. Wire it up in a position that holds it like this and spray the cable with PBBlaster every five minutes for a period of thirty minutes. Pull the cable out with the pliers. Spray with PBBlaster. Repeat the original routine of pushing it back into the housing with the pliers. Chances are it will free up and eventually slide in and out like it should. Switch to ATF and add a drop with the cable extended and let it slide back in. Repeat numerous times. You would like to think this would solve the problem and you could drive off into the sunset with a perfectly functional/adjusted kickdown cable; BUT my experience is that this fix is only temporary and you will eventually be looking at replacing the cable or reverting to option 1 or option 2.

Randy