Got your e-mail.

That is the place I mentioned. It is easier to get to to check for power to the main pump here than the trunk when cranking. Both pumps should run if the engine is cranked. If the fuel tank is below a half a tank of full the main fuel pump cannot pull fuel out especially going up hill. The in-tank force feeds the main pump. It is very quiet but can be heard when cranked if you listen from the tank filler neck. A short garden hose can help.

The response below mine says the same thing that the engine crank signal to the computer turns on the relay. I have read that these relays have bad solder joints inside them and can fail. I have never found this in any of the four cars I've worked on and own.

The hall sensor in the distribtor or rpm/timing senor off flywheel sends the signal to the ECU that turns on the relay. Engine turning this turns on the spark. Check for spark and power to two of the connections of the relay connector. If you get power and spark pop open the relay and check it out. Resolder the bad joints even if they appear good. Test the coil by putting power to the coil terminals of the relay and hear and see it click.

The blade fus you found in the battery area is the system power fuse. A whole lot of things don't work if it is bad. It should be a 25 amp to protect the wires. Check your owners manual for the proper size.

The main fuel pump looks to have been change from the looks of the connector. I'm not sure it looks factory.