From what you have said. You are pretty sure your the ignition system is in good shape.

I'll try to think this though while I write it out. The order will be questionable I'm sure. Thats the challenge.

You suspect a lean condition. You have ruled out all air leaks. Suspect lack of fuel. It does hit so its getting something!

The engine has a lot of miles. How is the compression on the cylinders? If it got fuel can it burn it. You said it runs fine when warm. xxx.

So? Low fuel or spark timing could be an issue.

How old is the timing belt. Could have it jumped time? Check the timing while cranking with timing light. Or if you don't own one. Turn the engine by hand location till the distributor rotor will be on number one wire direction with the timing mark TDC on its compression stroke.

Mechanically those have to be together.

After this is good. Then you have to know if it is getting fuel. It was getting some you said and if the other stuff is good it should burn it. ????

You could pull the plugs and there should be a strong smell of gas after cranking. When you pull the plugs is there gas or oil on them. Spark should have kept them clean if it. ????

Spin the engine with plugs out there should be a vapor and again a strong smell.

If not, I would say a fuel spray problem. Injectors not opening or not long enough pulse width, (Start enrichment). Hall sensor in the distributor, Sparks the plugs & Pumps run when you crank after for a second after. (Normal) XXX.

Coolant sensor signal dictates some (with the AMM) of the pulse width from the ECU during starting. Maybe, then again could be low fuel pressure. Symptoms are very similar!

Runs good warmed up. The last time it ran. Warm and cold days will vary the way it starts from day to day. You....got to think on this one! Warm engine can run lean. Cold engines don't like it.

STUMBLES SEVERELY FOR THE FIRST MINUTE OF DRIVING WHEN WARMING UP. COULD BE A LEAD!


Not starting at all, is more serious. Then you got to think. Did I know all else was good mechanically, compression, timing and spark. When I went down that fuel road?

This is where you think you want to be. Were you really at a fuel delivery problem? Could be a measuring problem. If so, under what conditions?


The pumps are suppose to and usually do pump a lot more than the engine uses. The fuel pressure regulator sends excess back to the tank.

Is the one you replaced a good one? Used or new when you replaced it?

Check valves on the outlet of the pump would cause hard starting but it should start once the lines are refilled. They mostly cause hard starting after it sets and loses rest pressure on the injectors rail.

If you check for quantity and if you are not leaking it back excessively. You probably have pressure.

Its a way around a pressure gauge. A gauge does it with less mess and flumes. Pressure while running tells you 90%. Capacity checks the "Filter & pump " for a flow problem?

Ask yourself. Did it act like it was running out of gas when it needed gas the most? The last time is was running fast up a hill? Did this happen like a click!

You may want to print this out. Run it back and forth in your mind of how it was running before. Logically put your head around what you see under the hood.

Step by step is the learning curve. The reward is pride of conquest!