Another scary way to test the AMM besides voltage checking by sliding back the rubber boot and probing. But if you remove the 10mm bolt and free the amm, then loosen front clamp and pull it up. Then start the car and gently blow into the AMM while running you should get the motor to either stall or rev up a little. You can also try putting a piece of cardboard partly over it but caution it may cause the engine to backfire which isn't such a good idea. After 1989 they don't have an adjustment on the AMM to compensate idle mixture.

The other important connector to remove and check for rust and corrosion is the ignition module which is located on the drivers fender beside the battery. I had to replace my ignition module as it gave first weak spark and then no spark due to age. Mine got very hot when it died. Also it was holding the coil at 5 volts on the white/red stripe wire side.