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I wish I could say I have successfully used this test and therefore pass it on with confidence, but alas, I have not. However, I have faith in the source of the information... right here on the Brickboard.
To test the hall sensor:
(1) Pull off one spark plug wire and attach directly to coil with spark plug in the end, connect the plug base to a ground.
(2) Disconnect the harness plug from the distributor
(3) Switch ignition "ON"
There are three contacts in the connector. They are arranged in a straight line. With the ignition "ON" one of the connectors (on one end of the row or the other) will show 12v to ground. If you can not get 12v from any of the pins when the ignition is switched "ON" and you do not suspect the wiring at fault between the plug and the ICU then suspect the ICU being the fault.
(4) If you find 12v at one of the pins carefully use a jumper to briefly connect the remaining two pins. Each time you jumper those two pins the plug should spark.
In this test the jumper is replacing the effect of the hall sensor. If you get a strong spark with this test and you were getting no spark out of the coil when cranking the engine the hall sensor is faulty.
Randy
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