Hello,

Different engines require different gasket sealing techniques.

For Volvo B16/B18/B20/B30/B21/B23/B230 engines:

Nothing on carburetor base gaskets, float bowl cover gaskets, throttle body gaskets, intake/exhaust manifold gaskets, early cold starter injectors and preheat chamber access plates on 1968-1972 exhaust manifolds with cars that had carburetors.

We use Gasacinch to hold water pump gaskets to the water pump and a little white grease on the engine side of the gasket.

We use oil resistant silicone(we prefer the brand called "The Right Stuff") to hold front and rear crankshaft seal cover gaskets to the covers and Gasacinch on the engine side of the gasket. The same is done with the oil pan gasket.

With stock valve covers, we use nothing on the stock cork gaskets for B16/B18/B20/B30 engines. We usually use The Right Stuff on both side of the valve cover gasket when using an aluminum B18/B20 valve cover.

B21/B23/B230 valve covers basically go on dry, but with a dab of The Right Stuff in the corners of the camshaft caps and on the 1/2 moon seal where used.

Head gaskets are installed dry.

Although on B18 and early B20 engines we recently started using a very thin coating of The Right Stuff on the area just outside of the lifter bores.

Elring brand B20F head gaskets now come with a bead of sealant already applied to the head gasket for better sealing for the same area, although we do not go all the way around the lifter bores like Elring does with their gaskets, only along the outer edge.

We use Gasacinch on both side of the gasket for fuel pumps, fuel pump block off plates, water block off plates on carburetored heads, D-jet auxiliary air slides, distributor base gaskets.

On B16 engines, the lifter access plates and both water outlet necks get Gasacinch.




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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502