On a tight budget--here's what I'd do. Buy a used control arm--whether you take it yourself at a pick-a-part place or from an auto wrecker you can have it with the rear bushing and housing, sway bar link and ball joint w/ball joint housing all attached--maybe run you $50 at a DIY yard--maybe $100 at a wrecker. The front bushing rarely, if ever needs to be replaced so a used control arm is not likely to need it. Your rear bushing may be ripped from the impact but a quick examination of a used one in the attached housing will tell you if it's good.
Do as Travis suggested--loosen the nut on the front bushing pivot bolt--if the head can turn easily with the nut loosened it will come out (check yours first to see if you want to get involved in the work to remove a stuck bolt--check that bolt first at the D-I-Y place--pick one that will come out ok). You can take the control arm with or without the ball joint--just a matter of the three bolts ball joint to control arm--or the four bolts ball joint housing to strut.
The price quoted is reasonable enough for a shop to charge--but if the alignment is for four wheels--ask what they'd charge to just take care of the front. The rear will not need alignment unless the rear suspension bushings are worn--and if that's the case the cure is new bushings there--nothing to "align".
If you know enough about alignment you can do the job with string and a carpenters level. I do that myself but fully understand why a novice would be more comfortable with a reputable shop doing it.
I can feel your pain as I crunched a right side control arm on my 144 years ago--same deal--snow covered ice--a little too much speed--unfortuneately placed curb. -- Dave