Well, did the job. Here's how it played out. Sorry no pics, was in a big hurry. It's my wife's car and had to get it back on the road.

You might be able to do the job without removing teh AC compressor. you'd have to lift the engine really, really high if you leave it in. I was beginning to run into issues with parts bumping into other parts as I raised the engine as it was. Not sure how much higher I'd be comfortable going.

I was working on a coolant leak from the thermostat, so the PS pump was out already. This gave easy access to remove the alternator. Do remove the battery from the car before you get too far into this. Keep track of which bolts, nuts and screws go where, it gets confusing fast. After the alternator was out, access to the AC compressor was not too bad.

The alternator is an odd setup, in my experience. The rear bolts can't be removed to the back, there is a bracket in the way. the bracket makes it very difficult to get to the bolts at all. A stubby 14mm would be the ticket here, I think. What you have to do is remove the front bolts, then as the rear bolts are loosened, the compressor moves forward. There is a bracket into which the rear bolts thread. Though I couldn't get this bracket out and couldn't actually remove the compressor completely, I was able to move the compressor enough to wiggle out the mount.

Also very helpful was to remove the oil filter. After I raised the engine a little more, the mount came right out after that.

Regarding raising the engine. I searched and found several good ideas and methods for this. What I chose to do was this:

Loosened both upper engine mount bolts.

On the passenger side, I used a mechanical scissor jack, not hydraulic, with a piece of plywood between the jack and the bolt heads on the passenger side of the oil pan. Not hydraulic so that I could have complete control over moving the engine. The hydraulic jack I have isn't real controllable on the way down. Raising the engine from the side kind of tilted the engine, the passenger side mount was separated but the driver side was not.

On the drivers side, I used the same jack with a piece of 2x4 as long as the width of the oil pan. I positioned the 2x4 under the oil pan between the sway bar and subframe and positioned the jack toward the drivers side end to tilt the engine again.

I chose to tilt the engine so that the full weight of the engine wasn't supported by the jacking point. Didn't want to take any chances with that. Having one engine mount always somewhat engaged also provided additional stability for the engine.

While lowering the engine, the mounts had to be guided into the brackets. Using the mechanical scissor jack allowed me to do that easily.

I'm sure there are other ways, but this worked for me with no real drama.