Someone saying the lights are brighter without the sensor can be saying it based on theory something cannot be measured without affecting it. Schrödinger's cat.

If the difference is noticeable, then the sensor needed to be fixed, replaced, or gotten rid of, because the bypass of it would not noticeably reduce the voltage drop of a working bulb out sensor.

I don't particularly agree with bypassing it, but I realize that's because I value the warning it provides despite young drivers claiming they can use their own eyes to see if lights are working. And, perhaps, because I can fix them.

But in the spirit of the catalytic converter "test pipe" it is with pleasure I answer your question about the pins to jump. For the short distance, even 22 AWG wire would be plenty large enough; I used 18 Ga.



Use a scissor to disconnect the two upper tiers from the base. I pulled the remaining stubs out, but if they don't touch each other there's no need.



And this view from the top is how it looks when you add the jumpers on the foil side of the circuit board.




--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

They say you can do anything in international waters.
That's why I filled my hot tub with international water.