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Do you have a mech's stereoscope or section of hard wooden dowel to locate the tick / slight knock?
Where do you have the section of wood dowel on the engine to hear the tick / slight knock loudest?
So, in the driveway and parked:
The tick / slight knock behaves the same at idle and raised RPM?
Variation in note and volume with increasing / decreasing RPM.
Variation from cold start to engine reaching warm.
On the road:
The tick / slight knock behaves the same at idle and raised RPM?
Variation in note and volume with increasing / decreasing RPM.
As your other responders say.
With exhaust leaks, from cold, soak all exhaust seals with dish detergent / water and soak the unions. Start the engine and note any bubble. You have a short period to note leaks as the exhaust heats. Leaks at the cylinder head exhaust gasket have a chitty or, as the FAQ mentions, tut-tut-tut sound.
Valve train noise may also be a cause. Large valve clearance gaps and deteriorated hushers or what remaining well-hardened husher bits vacate the space they occupied can make for an instant rise in a valve clatter.
Though you have a B23 F Turbo engine, and with proper and sustained oiling, piston - con rod wrist pins and the crank end con rods should not form clearances that foment sound as you describe. There do exist exceptions.
Like Phil says, your LH-Jet 2.0 has the knock sensor, so if under load, as in accelerating, use a multimeter to test the knock sensor.
Compression test results? Cold, Warm, always throttle wide open.
All air intake seals between the air filter and the exhaust manifold gasket are good? Tho a stretch that air intake leaks may lead to a cause.
Hope that helps.
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