Roland and Dave inspire some more recollection and thinking on control arm bushings. Having a method, or following a procedure is not my goal if not based on understanding what the objectives are.

Assertions I've started with:

1. I can't be sure if the rear bushing has failed (broken loose from the inner sleeve) without taking down the rear bracket.

2. If I install a new rear bushing and its orientation isn't such that the twist will be equal at both extremes of spring compression and extension, the new bushing will fail soon.

3. It is awkward to tighten the nut on the rear bushing with the bracket installed, especially on the exhaust side.

4. I don't expect to have to replace the front bushing.

So, if these assertions are trustworthy, I will use a 14 socket to zip out the three bracket bolts to have better access to test assertions 1,2, and 4. After setting with a new bushing (or just reinstalling a good one) I remember using some kind of a lever* against the bushing twist (long screwdriver or channel lock pliers in one hand?) to line up the bracket in order to start the first bolt into the framework.

Also, I seem to remember the bottom of the bracket cup being in the same plane as the arm itself, somehow, so that it was properly set when it lay flat on the floor, but having the whole arm out of the car is rare for me. So far I haven't found the need to replace a front bushing on the control arm.

Any method which results in the (#2) twist being centered with normal spring extension will meet my objective.

*this will get a follow up and maybe a picture.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

You spend the first two years of their life teaching them to walk and talk. Then you spend the next sixteen telling them to sit down and shut up.