Hey Phil; Thanks for the information.

I agree that added a resistor (haven't checked where yet) on the circuit board shouldn't have been a fix. I checked the circuit board and all resistors, traces, components and diodes and they all checked okay. So, I don't understand this yet.

I repaired the bad running issue. I put the car's timing marks back on, removed all pullies, made sure they were all installed on correctly, in case they may have slipped, checked top dead center with both the timing marks and also a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole. made sure everything was spot on.

I did compression tests again. Both dry and wet. Dry was between 135 and 142 psi on the cylinders. Remember, I had the head and valves redone.

Wet was between 165 and 178 psi on the cylinders. not too bad.

I then did a leak down test and I found:
1. 10%
2. 20%
3. 20%
4. 20%

I used the timing marks and screwdriver for #1 and screwdriver only for 2, 3, & 4.

No air bubbles in the coolant reservoir each time.
removed the oil filler cap and heard air (not much) each time.
Heard a very low ghostly wind noise (barely could hear it) in the tail pipe each time.

Found one of the wires completely off on my oil pressure sending unit right next to the oil filter/alternator. This explains why the oil pressure light was blinking when I drove the car? and maybe this sent a signal to the ECU and the car ran badly?

Don't know, but, when I put everything back together and started the car, it fired right up, timing was spot on at 12 DBTDC and the engine ran really smoothly.

I'm going to check that instrument cluster circuit board one more time and also the wiring.

Thanks,

Lawren