The posts have covered most of the stuff - just a couple of notes - as already said somewhere - go ahead and REPLACE the flame trap, flame trap holder and the small vacuum hose as a minimum. Clean the clogged brass nipple being very careful NOT to enlarge the hole. I usually use a small drill of the appropriate size held with small vice grips (not an electric drill) after removing the nipple from the manifold.

Take a look at the rear of the valve cover - there is a half mood shaped rubber plug below the valve cover edge at the top of the head - sometimes these will blow out or leak - if yours is hard, remove the valve cover and replace this and the valve cover gasket as well. Be sure to do all 3 front seals and new timing belt as well - the oil soaked one will have significantly shorter life than a dry one. Replace the rubber seal on the oil filler cap.

When removing and replacing the oil separator housing, be careful not to pull up the rubber hose that sits flush against the block and extends into the crankcase. It has a clip inside the crankcase to hold it in place and if you pull it up, it will be necessary to drop the pan (MAJOR PIA) to get it properly into position else it can interfere with crank.

When you finish all the work and get the engine running, loosen the filler cap and let it rest on top of the valve cover - the crankcase vacuum should pull it down so that it does not 'dance' or jiggle on top of the valve cover. If it does jiggle, it means that you still have excessive crank case pressure and need to look further. COuld be still breather problems - OR could be excessive piston ring blowby that can be checked by doing compression and leak-down tests on the cylinders. Note that if your engine idles rough, the 'jiggle' test may not work.