You are all coming to the same conclusion. SU's are so simple, there really aren't any special tools that add value.
I have worked with them since '65 and still enjoy the simplicity, even if they are a bit fussy with the changing weather.
To centre the needles in the jets, I like to loosen the lock nut, turn the jet all the way up so it contacts the piston. Assemble the piston, needle and dash pot. Tap gently on the side of the carb body and let the needle centre the jet for you. Tighten the lock nut and raise the piston with your finger and lower it gently to make sure the needle doesn't stick. With a little practice, you can get good results.
The small wrench to adjust mixture while the car is running can be useful. But if the carbs have been cleaned up, you should be able to turn that nut with your fingers. I like to visually set the top of the jets about 1/16" below the surface of the carb body to begin. Once the car is started and warmed up, play with the idle screws to get a decent idle speed.
You can use a Unisyn to balance multiple carbs, but using a piece of fuel hose to listen to the flow is very effective. Both carbs should sound exactly the same at idle.
At idle, use the tip of a screwdriver to gently lift the piston. If the speed drops, the carb is lean. If speed quickly rises, it's too rich.
This is where the beauty of SU's comes in. By playing with mixture, synchronization and idle speed, you are really doing a tune up in the classical sense of the word. SU's have soul, so every car is different. A wild cam makes it more challenging, but once you get to know your carbs, small tweaks when the weather changes drastically should be enough.
Last thought-SET THE CARBS LAST. Plugs, points, dwell, timing, valve adjustment are all prerequisites to carb set up.