I have just finished rebuilding a B21F for my son's '77 245. I am going to run it before installing to check for leaks and noises, start wearing in rings/honing, run warmed up leakdown tests, check valve seating, etc. Will probably run for no more than 4 hours over a week or so. Two questions:

1. Any ideas for test stand improvements. Going use two used cross ties, 24" apart running along the sides of the engine. Will attach engine mounts to a piece of channel iron between the ties. Will have a 3x3x1/4 angle iron with 1x2x3/8 straps from the angle up to the starter bolts on the left and the right two bell housing bolts on the flange on the right. After running the engine, the angle iron, sans straps, will be used to bolt to the flange for the transmission mount (M46) so I can check the clutch and M46 (rebuilt it also). Radiator (no fan) will be mounted on 2x4 wood run vertical from the front of the ties. I will use a floor fan for the radiator. The only accessory belt will be to the water pump. Cheap 3 meter ($25) from Walmart for oil pressure and water temperature. Hand wired ignition switch, starter button, open throttle body by hand. May wire in main and fuel pump relays or may hardwire them and ignore the thermal time switch and cold start injector, depends on fuel question below.

2. I would like to avoid pulling the tank, intank pump, main pump etc. to plumb the injector system. Was considering putting a quart or 1/2 gallon of gas in an air carry tank and using compressed air over it at 70psi to feed the fuel system. I don't know (1) if compressed air over gas increases the fire/explosion hazard and (2) what size and type of flare fittings the fuel system uses.

Any help would be appreciated. A month or so ago I had never even looked under the hood of a Volvo. The brickboard and swedishbricks have been a huge help.

Thanks,
Mark Cantrell