Note that the left side and right side bushings have different part numbers - allegedly, they have different stiffnesses, but they are the same dimensions. I have yet to hear authoritatively *which* side is stiffer! In a mental lapse I mixed mine up last spring, so I have a 50% chance of having them in the correct locations.

I thought the job was straightforward. Check the manual, but - support the car, pull the wheel, unbolt the sway bar link, loosen the front A-arm pivot bolt (eat your Wheaties first), then remove the 3 bolts holding the 'tray' bushing. The whole A-arm comes off. I had trouble unbolting the rear bolt, and ended up drilling out the rubber and chiseling off the inner bushing sleeve - it had rusted onto the shaft. Once the nut was off, I squirted the old bushing with PB Blaster and then it was just press work after that (I have a press available at work).

When re-installing, you are supposed to have the weight of the car on the front wheels so that the bushings are loaded when final torque is applied. The exhaust downpipe is really in the way on the passenger side, so I cheated - I got an approximate final rotational position of the bracket relative to the A-arm, and torqued the right side off the car. Close enough for my needs - I was maybe 5 degrees off at most.

I did the A-arms, torque rods and Panhard rod bushings - in about 4 hours total. Maybe 5 if I include the St Pauli Girl break...