I'd skip the tensioner unless inspection showed it to be loose. Replace it at the second timing belt replacement, i.e., 150K.

Your choice on the water pump, but if it were mine I'd leave it alone until it leaks or you know/can tell the bearing is worn. I've got two volvos, one 1987 with 260K and one 90 740T with 136K and both have original water pumps. BTW, I HAVE had to replace the radiators on both of these cars...on the 90 I had to put a second Nissen three row in after about three years...IPD gave me a 1/2 price warranty price on the second radiator even though it was out of warranty.
I use volvo coolant on the 90 and regular prestone on the 87. The 87's second radiator is volvo stock because I needed it yesterday and the local dealer was the fastest place to get one. I don't really like the plastic necks or tanks, but they are lighter than the nissen radiators. FWIW, the 87 doesn't overheat and neither does the 90 in 100+ Wash DC weather.

Seals...yes, I'd probably have them replaced at the 100K timing belt. Make sure they do all three...there's a seal on the oil pump pulley/shaft too.

I'd have ALL the rubber hoses checked thoroughly...one school of thought says replace all rubber hoses every 4 years or 60k...not going to happen. But you might look carefully at the heater hose(s) and the little valve back there...10 years is a good run for that $##@% valve and when it goes you overheat unless you shut the engine down.

You should also have the valve clearances checked, I believe. FWIW, I've had several volvo B230 engines and none of them needed clearance adjustment when running synthetic. OTOH, I haven't burned any valves either, which would close up one quick!!