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E-fan still causing brick to run hot but really only with AC now

Team,

Over the past few months I've been having issues with my electric fan and have made a few posts regarding it. Here are the updated details:
1) Fan is a 16" Hayden puller fan rated 1600 CFM.
2) Preset thermo probe (inserted into rad fins) which enages the fan at 185 F and off at 170 F.
3) new oem thermostat, all new coolent, no leaks, radiator powerwashed
3) Fan is not connected to the AC to engage when/if AC is on and only comes on if fan thermo reaches 185.

The probe is mounted in the upper left hand corner/area of the radiator and cut so the probe does not protrude out of the rad. Today I let the car run for about 40 min (today was about 75F in Boston) with the AC cranked and could hear/see the condenser fan engage as well as the E-fan which at first would only remain on for about 15-20 seconds then cycle off. About 35 minutes into the "test" the temp gauge began to approach the redline. The electric fan was definitely running and remained on constantly until I decided to turn off the AC. The gauge was contant (slightly below the redline while the fan was running so it wasn't getting hotter persay but didn't drop the temp down either). Once I turned off the AC, the E-fan then shutoff and the gauge returned to the 9:00 position (pretty quickly). For the next 5 min it cycled back on and the gauge remained steady. I then terminated the test and shutoff the car. It seems that the fan was not powerful enought to bring the temp below 170 and hence remained on while the gauge remained slightly below the redline.

What should I do? I have not moved the probe to a different location on the rad yet which I will do which maybe will keep it on longer initially. Is the fan not powerful enough? It does have a shroud (no where near as big as the original though). Maybe the probe doesn't read accurately. Should I step up to a three-row rad or maybe ditch the cheap hayden thermo probe and get an adjustable one to turn on at a lower temp (175-180) and off at a lower temp (160). Or get one that threads into the coolant line. It seems that it is more linked to the AC now. I'd like to keep the e-fan but might have to go back to the mechanical one. I thought the t-stat opens at 192...or is it 189?
Thanks as always,
-Adam
--
'92 244GL silver-metallic, 146k, Bilstein HDs, IPD sways, upper+lower chassis braces, Cherry-Turbo strut brace, 240 OEM rear wing, 15" Draco Rims, Full E-code lighting w/side repeaters, Magnaflow 2.5" mandrel SS exhaust w/Unitek header (Jethot coated)






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New E-fan still causing brick to run hot but really only with AC now
posted by  Sterndogg02  on Sun May 2 14:28 CST 2004 >


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