You need something like this, shown on a 240MC. The goal is to pump and recirculate the fluid until no more bubbles appear as fluid reenters the reservior.
You can also do it on the car, if you use clear hoses so you can watch from the driver's seat for the bubbles to stop as you slowly pump the pedal. Solid lines are OK if you have a helper to watch for the reservoir bubbling to stop as you pump. (See NOTE*)

Make up prop of the right length ahead of time, and when the lines are bubble-free, prop the pedal in the full-down position.
This will keep fluid from running out when you remove the bleeder lines to reconnect the car lines.

I leave the car line fittings a bit loose at first, then remove the pedal prop to allow some dribbling as the line fittings are tightened. The intent is a final bleed of any residual air at the fittings. Works good on 240 where the lines go straight down from the MC. But I'm not sure how your lines are configured

* I've recently read that bench-bleeding allows for more piston travel (more complete air expulsion) than the brake pedal provides. Sounds plausible.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) - 240s (one V8) - 140s - 122s - since '63.