If you are just changing master cylinders you do not have to bleed the system. Bleed it out at the line fittings on the master itself after the install. Those lines are the highest point and air will migrate up into the master without problems.
The biggest problem will be caused by stroking the master to a point it hasn't been in some time, as that will cause the seals to overrun the sediment and rust that probably exists further down the bore.
If it was me, and I was being cheap, I would strip the master and hone the bore and re-assemble, having removed the crap that will tear the seals. Then you can bleed it without damage.