|
1. A ball joint remover - There are several kinds: "pickle fork", lever type, clamp type. This removes the taper from the iron hub-knuckle. The pickle fork works, but requires hammering with a 3 lb sledge.
Pickle fork:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/showCustom-0/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004159/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2004159/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=ball%20joint%20tool
Lever and clamp types:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/showCustom-0/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004158/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2004158/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=ball%20joint%20tool
(this is the only source I can find for the lever type)
I would get both the pickle fork and the lever press. You can use the lever press later for tie rod ends and such.
2. Ball joint press - This presses the cup out of and back into the control arm (swingarm).
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38335
So that's <$50 in tools. Far less than you'd pay in labor, and you will have the tools.
The balljoints themselves should be available locally. There are 2 types, one with a domed cap, and one with a "highhat" cap. Your '74 should be the domed type. You should be able to do the job in a couple hours.
Sorry to send China the business, but that's business.
--
MPergiel, Elmhurst, IL '74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'
|