I changed the fuel filter and added a 2 gauge ground strap from the block to the frame, fired it up and it ran smoother than it has since the rebuild - until it warmed up. It then stalled as though I had just switched the ignition off, and would not restart. I'm betting when I try starting it today it will fire right up - this time if(when)it stalls, I'm going to whack the fuel pump to see if that helps.I guess I should also check for fuel volume too. What connections do I make to allow a KOER test( neutral safety switch override)
This car has 367,000+ km. on it. It had 297,000 on it when I bought it with the 4 cylinder, and unfortunately the previous owner didn't keep records like I do. A weak fuel pump would not be beyond to realm of possibilities.
I've cleaned and "played with" the 10 pin connectors on numerous occasions, and one pin was pushed down below the others, however, I found out that pin is for the temperature gauge which works fine.
The relay makes a nice healthy click when I energize the pump, plus I could actually feel it as I crank the engine.
BTW, after clearing the codes, I no longer got code 87, but I did get 85-canister purge solenoid. Can someone enlighten me as to how that could affect the running?