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Three suggestions:
1) fluid level checking notes below
and
2) checking the kickdown cable.
and
3) get the fluid changed out ($100 or so)
1) Fluid level:
Make sure you have engine running, pull the stick, wipe, reinsert and pull again. Then read. Mentally revise the "HOT" marks on dipstick to be 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch lower on the stick than they are. That's after 30-45 minutes driving. Testing by one of our members with an infrared thermometer proved that you're not likely to ever get it warmed up to the temp stated on the stick - that's why you can mentally revise the marks.
2) Kickdown cable.
Easy enough to check this. If you don't want to, any shop can in a couple minutes or so.
On drivers side of engine bay, maybe a foot forward of firewall, find vertical pulley wheel with two cables. One approaches from rear at top, the other approaches from rear at bottom. Bottom cable is the kickdown. Upper cable is the throttle cable. Both should be pulled tight by spring tension. If lower cable is not pulled around the pulley, if it has slack cable hanging around, then the kickdown cable is your problem.
Grip the lower cable and pull out of cable sheath a few inches. When you release, spring tension should pull it back into sheath. If it moves slowly or hangs up, that's your problem.
If sticky, they sometimes respond to lube squirted into sheath. Sometimes not. I had one that I got moving again but about a year later it stuck again and needed a new cable. Sometimes better when warm since that thins out any lube that's in there.
3)
Fluid change
By the book, should be changed every 20K miles if I recall. But of course I'd check the other things before spending $$ on a fluid change. Tell them to NOT change the filter screen. That's per Volvo's recommendation.
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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, quad horns, tach, small clock. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.
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