Mark, I believe you have a poor connection in the wiring.

All the conversation about replacing pumps, relays, etc. is typical -- we sure love to put new parts in our old cars, thinking, hey they had a long life, so it makes sense to swap in new. Like you're slowly making the car new again. Rationalization.

Not in a 240. In a 240, intermittent problems are simply oxidized, corroded, loose terminal connections on wires. Nothing to swap in. No Autozone heroics.

In a 1990 the fuses inside the car have little to do with whether it runs. I can remove all of those fuses and drive across town, indeed across the state of Missouri, if no police officer would stop me for the lack of lighting and so forth.

However, that 25A fuse on the fender can be shiny and new, yet its wiring and socket will betray you and stop the car without leaving you any telltale OBD codes (the loose connection erases them.)

That you wiggle things and get the car to stop should turn on a light in your head -- this is NOT a fuel pump or relay.

If your car stalls and the codes are 111, slide the boot back on the AMM and read the key-on/engine-off voltage on the orange wire. Use a meter or a test light either one. Wiggle things while you're watching this. If it ever disappears, the red lead to the blade fuse is the likely trouble. Replace the fuse HOLDER and the wiring connections under the hood.

If it stalls when you shake the CPS lead, replace the CPS. (It is the wiring!)

--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Expert: An "ex" is a has-been and a "spurt" is a little drip under pressure.