My very 1st clutch job was on my 1st 122 which was done on jack stands in my cousin's back yard when I was teenager but it wasn't fun and the rear main seal wasn't changed at that time so obviously it can be done without a lift.

Which brings me to the subject of changing the rear main seal.

If you know that the rear main seal housing is the original felt type and you want to update to the rubber silicone seal type, you risk tearing the oil pan gasket when changing the rear housing and resealing the oil pan is problematic with the engine in the car especially if you want to change the pan gasket with the transmission already removed.

Even though it does cost more than pulling the transmission, it is cheaper than pulling the transmission and then having to pull the engine afterwards, so I have been pulling engines instead of transmissions lately when changing clutches when I know I have to update the rear seal.

That way I can properly reseal the oil pan. And once I have the oil pan off, I can inspect the oil pump and seals and the main and rod bearings. And on engines that don't have my updated front timing covers, those usually gets changed at the same time which allows me to inspect the timing gears.

You should always have the flywheel surfaced when changing a clutch. Volvo 6 bolt flywheels are supposed to be machined with a step.

Tt is important to check your flywheel to see if it the early B18 version or the later B18/B20 version. The early version needs to modified slightly so that the outer row of rivets on the hub of the Sachs clutch disc won't rub the flywheel about half way into the life of the clutch disc.

I charge 5 hours to R&I the transmission, clutch linkage, clutch, flywheel, pilot bearing and just the rear main seal regardless of type.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502