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Looking for a new Hall Sender for my '84 245. The original one is a Bosch 1230500221, which doesn't seem to show up anywhere as the right part for my car, or for any Volvo for that matter. . I've read elsewhere in this forum that the Wells RB119 is a compatible replacement. Has anyone gone down this rabbit hole?
The other option I'm considering is just replacing the pickup itself, the HZK101, which appears to be very common and readily available, but definitely less appealing than a drop-in replacement. There's an '84 at the Pick A Part a half hour from here that may or may not have a distributer in it, but I'd prefer to stick a new part in there rather that risk having to repeat the operation a year from now.
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Hi,
I agree with all the other post about defeating the wax thermostat in the air filter box.
That thing is outrageously expensive, let alone it fails repeatedly, to make emissions worse!
I pull out the whole “snap in” assembly and pushed the flap over and remove thermostat.
I put in a filler of anything solid like plastic or wood in the shape of a square block of about 5/8”.
This will cause the flap to stay over and to close off air flow.
In the case of a missing flap assembly, you might try a ball similar to a junior tennis ball or blue hand ball stuffed down into the elbow that goes to the aluminum / paper stove pipe hose.
Everything will look like it’s there and it is really doubtful that a smog inspection mechanic is ever going to go to the trouble to unclamp hoses to get the air filter box open.
Besides to look for the flap mechanism, that he probably doesn’t know about and he will see just an air inlet for incoming air anyway. The other, smaller one, is easily overlooked.
Too many mid year changes in car models to chase down the service bulletins even for a dealers with factory “cost time” estimates.
Bet, that’s not even on the service managers clipboard! (:)
Believe me there are not enough smog mechanics, to no every detail on a vast myriad of cars let alone the ones as old as ours!
Doing research and reading is not something for most men in this field do!
The Money isn’t there to make it a favorite past time or even worth to “decertify” something, that’s too hard or expensive to get parts for anyway!
Our state used to draw the line at 25 years backwards to be exempt, but one politician, with his feet up on his desk, changed it to stop rolling forward.
As usual, politicians are not savvy enough to even know what their writing and promoting in their bills, but want their name on something.
IHMO, that once they wear the seat shiny of their original suit pants twice, from sitting in a chair or on bar stool, they should be removed from office!
MAYBE, that’s why they like standing behind a podium when the audience sits down below! (:-)
Antiques and classic vehicles aren’t used that much to begin with. With nine vehicles myself and only two drivers, I can rest my case, that they mostly sit idle, so ... no smog! Hello?
Anyway, get rid of that whole heating up the intake air idea.
Besides, Turbo cars use inter coolers, so it’s a bad “gimmick” for a couple minutes of warming up already denser oxygenated air?
This engine isn’t used in aircraft to worry about altitude ice in the intake throat!
Phil
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A strategically placed sheet metal screw through the flap and housing will quickly fix it being able to open. Nothing else needs to be removed so the inpectors will have little to see unless they pull the pre-heat hose and use a mirror to see your handiwork.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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Eureka! A little bit of junkyard Kismet yesterday; I chanced a trip up to the Pick A Part that showed they had an '84 that's been there for about a month. It was pretty thoroughly cannibalized, but there was the dizzy, and it popped out as effortlessly as one could hope. I ran Art's 9V hall sensor test onsite, brought it home and installed it, now she's spinning like a top. It was all I could do to not take the AMM home as well, but they're not giving that stuff away, and 50 bucks is a little more spare change than I have this week. I think I will try replacing just the pickup itself on the old one just for kicks. If it works, I've got a spare, and if not, I'll know it was a terrible idea.
Thanks Fellas,
Mark
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As CeeBee states, getting that 1984 AMM could be cheap insurance. The -02 (last two digits of the part no.) AMM's were only on the 83/84 LH-2 cars and now very rare in the yards. Mine failed while on a trip and the indie Volvo repair place charged me a young fortune for a replacement. Bugs me to think they probably got it for comparatively small change from the Pick-and-Pull or similar.
Later on, I found a -02 in a junkyard, and grabbed it. Tested OK on my car and it's wrapped in a baggie and in the trunk now.
--
Son's XC70, daughter's XC60, my 83 244DL, 89 745 (Chev LT-1 V8), and XC60. Also '77 MGB with Chev V6, and four old motorcycles. Long gone: 1981 244, 1994 940 and 1998 S90.
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I know this to be true. The one I have in there now is a remanufactured unit that was installed by Jim at Mac's Independant Volvo in Monrovia, CA, the guy I go to when I'm in over my head, and someone I consider to be of impeccable mechanic's character. He went through 2 or 3 of them before finding one that would get the NOX within smog legal territory, so I probably should just go try to snag that one from the junkyard to be the primary, and keep the reman in a ziploc for smog check time.
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Hi Mr. Slessig,
You do maintain the inside the air filter box thermostatically controlled preheater flap valve? Or maintain the appearance of the air induction intake preheater function for the CA-state SMOG emissions check.
In the air filter box is the air intake preheater flap valve that blends ambient air with preheated air drawn through the exhaust manifold heat shroud and that silver accordion hose that screws onto the air filtr box lower air intake port.
CA-emissions SMOG inspection requires all factory emissions controls to work. With the air intake preheater system. Verified by visual inspection during emissions check.
The air temperature thermostat that is part of the air filter box thermostatically controlled preheater flap valve always fails to all hot all the time. Will ruin an AMM / MAF eventually and with heated air over ambient the still functioning AMM exposed to the extra-heated will delivery (what I guess) is a lean fuel delivery causing a hi oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust. Also raises CO, I guess. I can't recall.
Borger-Warner / Wahler part number 704110
22$ from FCP Euro. May be able to find it for less elsewhere online.
FCP produt URL (copy and paste into new browser tab or window):
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-air-box-thermostat-1266826
Tasca sells it for 46$ (Volvo PN 1266826)
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-air-charge-temperature-sensor-1266826
Unsure if Wahler is OEM.
If not in an extremely cold environment from some months, like Michigan's Upper Peninsula (UP), a solution is to somehow seal the lower air filter box intake port and keep the silver accordion hose attached for emissions visual inspection.
Questions?
Hope that helps you.
Pleased you go your 1984 244 in fine running fetttle!
Hope Uncle Old Duke is also in fine fettle today!
--
Beh.
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Just to clarify your point when you say:
"a solution is to somehow seal the lower air filter box intake port and keep the silver accordion hose attached for emissions visual inspection."
You mean to block the flap valve open to cold air or remove it ?
Otherwise no air can get in if lower filter box intake is blocked and the flap valve also block the cold air inlet when thermostat is defective. I think.
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The airbox preheat thermostat is designed to warm up incoming cold air to about 10C (50F) in cold weather situations. This is intended to reduce emissions, particularly during engine warmup when ducting, throttle body, intake manifold passages, etc, are cold. Improves fuel vaporization or such. Some have said it speeds warmup. Doubt that. I can't see that there could be any measurable difference heating up a 400lb lump of cast iron and aluminum with combustion explosions going on inside it, just by raising the incoming air temperature a little.
The airbox workaround described on this BB years ago was to insert a finishing nail of the right length in place of the thermostat. The "right" length was that which holds the flapper valve to fully block the heated air port. Then you connect the flex tubing so everything looks factory stock.
I placed the sensor of one of those wired digital thermometers in the airbox with the readout on the dash. The preheater definitely works, and very quickly after engine start. But even with a new, working thermostat device, the temperature would climb and climb when using a lot of throttle up a long hill, on a cool day. At steady cruise with light throttle it would hold 12-15C. So the thing works, but not that well. If you live in a moderate climate, or unless you're a purist...finishing nail.
--
Son's XC70, daughter's XC60, my 83 244DL, 89 745 (Chev LT-1 V8), and XC60. Also '77 MGB with Chev V6, and four old motorcycles. Long gone: 1981 244, 1994 940 and 1998 S90.
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What I did with my 90 240DL was remove the silver accordion hose to keep the hot air from frying the AMM. I replaced the hose for inspections.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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This is an important bit of information. Indeed, my old thermostatic flap valve failed a few years ago, which eventually led to the AMM getting cooked, not to the point where it affected performance in an obvious way, but enough to throw the NOX emissions through the roof, hence the need to replace. Definitely something to stay out in front of!
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""" It was all I could do to not take the AMM home as well, but they're not giving that stuff away, and 50 bucks is a little more spare change than I have this week."""
Glad to hear you fixed your problem.
IMHO
That's Life Insurance man, Life Insurance on the cheap for your 84 240 rebuild.
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Have you considered buying a rebuilt or remanufactured distributor? Considering how tricky the replacement of the sensor is it might be worth considering.
Dan
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Hi Mr. Slessig ,
Found a few under $100. May be + shipping cost.
BOSCH 1230500221 NEW Distributor Ignition Pickup VOLKSWAGEN,AUDI *1983-1989)
The seller appears to list VW / Audi applications for fitment. Copy and paste URL.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-1230500221-NEW-Distributor-Ignition-Pickup-VOLKSWAGEN-AUDI-1983-1989-/112014392186
Image of the hall effect sender as imaged in this buy now auction with Bosch PN 1230500221 (1 230 500 221)
Another ePray auction, listing as used for $82. No warranty. Perhaps the seller as a multimeter and you can ask that seller to test pinouts?
See the part number clearly.
Mitchell Service Wiring diagram are at http://www.v8volvo.se/mekartips/volvo/index.html.
1984 240 PDF shows an overlay of Turbo K-jetronic and non Turbo K-jetronic on DPF page 1. Sensor wire are green and brown (to ignition control box) and black (to tach). I dunno resistance values between green and brown and testing for black between either green & brown. Bentley and the 700/900 FAQ may list Ohms resistance values. You want continuity between gree and brown wires. Dunno black wire tach continuity between green or brown wires.
FCP Euro also lists a hall effect sensor Bosch for $104
Appears for 1985+ by the fitment description. Bocsh PN 1237031292 and Volvo PN 1389424. Not yours.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-distributor-ignition-pickup-240-244-245-1237031292
The Volvo PN in another thread on this same topic here on your brickboard, per Eric Planetman shows Volvo PN 1346803 (now NLA per Tasca) = Bosch PN 1230500221.
Recent 30SEP2020 Thread:
https://brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1675201/correct_distributor_pickup_85_245.html
BobbyC has not reported back as to success.
Tasca page with NLA.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-distributor-ignition-pickup-1346803
Hope that helps you.
--
Beh.
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Here's mine.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ugkIWdPMGO_Vn2anXzD4WUreA7BMabXP/view?usp=sharing
I saw that one at FCP and was ready to buy before I decided to remove the old one to confirm first. Vexing that it doesn't come up on any Volvo part searches. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that mine is a Canadian model?
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Hi Mr. Slessig,
Sorry for the sloe (gin) reply.
Your distributor is Bosch? In Canada, 240 did not use that Chrysler MPG ignition where the ECU hangs on the washer fluid reservoir basket frame.
I'm unsure what used in the Chrysler distributor ignition.
As Eric Planetman indicated, the Bosch PN 1230500221 may be that plastic cover. I tend to agree. Yet the plastic cover varies between the twp ebay auctions and yours.
With benefit of your image, the eBay Auctions found using Bosch PN 1230500221 appear to fit your your distributor as on the bright steel plate, the threaded mounting location where the screws secure to it through the distributor housing appears to match sensor assembly.
For your 1984 Bosch distributor, the (powered) hall effect sensor may be NLA. With your Bosch part number from your now removed from the engine, you may find a matching replacement. I'm unsure the values for DC volts and connection to ground if they vary through different applications.
More images would help. Top and under neath with macro (flower on camera) close-ups of the connector. The connector on your is as Eric Planetman asks about yet the connector well appears thinner then both the eBay auction images.
I hope we can all find a resolution for you that works and is without any more fuss other than a reinstall. I hope the distributor you have is in good condition and the upper and lower bushings are in fine fettle.
The 1984 240 at the salvage yard is US, it may be the Chrysler MPG ignition distributor with usually a white cap that uses screws from the top to secure to the distributor housing. Incompatible.
The Volvo Part Webstore is geared for the US market. Yet sometimes there is overlap.
There is also the Classic Volvo Parts site, yet the parts are usually in Sweden. The catalogues are in both Swedish and German. Not English. Yet I've seen print versions in the 1980s in English.
You may want to contact one of the folks listed here.
https://www.gcp.se/en/contact/
I'm unsure the relation between Volvo GCP and ECRIS. Yet may be that can track down the exact Hall Effect sensor or a revision or a distributor with the matching hall effect sensor and connector that fits your application.
The L-shaped connector shows poor strain relief where the three wires enter the connector body. If there was some way to check continuity between the connector pins and someplace past the pins beyond the connector. Or test for continuity / ohms and wiggle.
Else, I'm unsure. Take a risk with the used sensor on eBay, so long as the seller can verify tests as our dear Arty B. shows you. Yet does it fit the rotor shaft?
Some images of your connector. Helps. Of if no continuity / ohms using Arts test, the 82$ used ebay unit may do well with a connector swap.
Used sensor austionm again:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-Distributor-Ignition-Pickup-1230500221/154078810775
Questions? Sorry I can help more. Grasping at straws. Maybe try a Canada Volvo dealership? $$$, however. Ask about part numbers and see what you get.
Thanks.
MacDuffed wondering where Uncle Old Duke is again. Trying to find him to call him.
--
Beh.
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Hello,
I'm pretty sure 1230500221 is the part number for the plastic cover on sender and not for the whole sender.
Which style of plug is on your distributor? Does is have a length of wire with a round plug with 3 pins or is it attached to the side of the distributor and retangular?
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
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Hi Eric, It's the Bosch connector. Rectangular. A search on that part # brings up the whole assembly, not just the cover, so I'm assuming it's correct. Here's what I got: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ugkIWdPMGO_Vn2anXzD4WUreA7BMabXP/view?usp=sharing
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Hello Dick,
If you look carefully at the pictures kittysgreyvolvo posted you should notice that the part number on the plastic cover stays the same while the shape of the connectors are different which backs up my contention that is the part number for just the plastic cover.
What has happened is some people are assuming that is the part number for the whole unit.
The correct Bosch part number is for your sender is: 1237031166 or "1 237 031 166".
The Volvo part number for the sender is: 1346803
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
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I pulled out my RPR parts catalog.
Eric prob remembers RPR and Rusty's comprehensive parts catalog.
anyway
p68 in the ignition parts section.
240 83-84, B23F w/Bosch distrib
Impulse Coil or Reluctor(sender): Volvo pn 1336462
I haven't a clue but RPR sold Volvo parts...genuine BlueBox Volvo parts.
This part was only used in those 2 years on the B23F ignition system.
ps: the number for Chrysler distrib is 1332207 --- in case you run across that number in your search
I still think it will turn out NOT to be a faulty Hall Sensor...but then that's only from my single experience. FWIW the Hall Sensor for my 87 245 B230F cost me $89.99 from RPR - in late 1990's Dollars.
_____________________________________________
RPR Volvo parts follow up April 2011
I went to RPR Volvo Discount parts in Albany, Ca. yesterday-bought a new "made in Germany" water pump almost 1/2 price just to stock up since RPR is closing down in about 6 weeks permanently-I previously went in and bought about $200 worth of parts-like filters, belts, hoses, dist caps, rotors etc-and saved a bundle of $$$. He is even selling his desk manuals, and, I even got a "Volvo" necktie for $5.
Question is-where do I shop for parts locally after he is gone?? and I dont mean the internet-the 'net is fine but when I need a part now-I need it "now".
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1480402/rpr_volvo_parts_follow.html
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I guess we'll see. I ran all the test I could find, including from the newly printed Volvo Problem Solver, and everything points pretty consistently to the sender. It won't be the first or last time I've been burned if it doesn't work out, but I feel pretty confident in my course of action. I think I may roll up to the junkyard tomorrow to try my luck on the doner '84 that's there. If that works out, I'll try my on replacing the sensor alone and let y'all know how it goes.
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if you haven't yet, give these guys a call.
They know their stuff and may have a used Distrib ....or miracle, the Part on the shelf.
I got a front to middle muffler exhaust pipe --- for a Non CAT B21 engine.
Very long to say the least. And I think they were glad to finally sell it to someone. $90...shipping was a killer.
https://voluparts.com/
you've got to call or email your request.
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Hell, I'm going to run that test right now. Sitting at my dining room table!
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Nearly 20 years ago I fashioned a tester to take with me to the junkyard. The idea was to qualify the Hall sender before going to the work to wrestle the distributor out of the car and pay for it. Given your guitar amp background I guess you can appreciate the simplicity of this:
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Two peanuts walk into a bar, and one was a salted.
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Thanks Eric.
Have you had any experience replacing just the pickup itself in these things? I know it's kind of a Hail Mary, and not something I'm chomping at the bit to do, but I fix guitar amps as well so I'm not afraid of little wires.
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I've had success with using a hall effect sensor for a Ford E350 of the same era.
You will need to re-use the original connector or get a new one as well.
Both parts are readily available online.
I've been driving 2yrs and 20k mi with this repair and it operates perfectly.
It does take work.
Driving the pin out was a PITA.
Soak the screws holding the plate down with PB Blaster and let soak for a while.
HALL Pickup SENSOR HKZ101 HKZ101E HKZ101S HKZ121 Fit VW AUDI SEAT 0237030022
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Hello Dick,
AFAIK, Bosch never sold just the sender by itself and they only sold the complete assembly with the breaker plate.
I've seen what appears to be a replacement sender, but we haven't had to try 1 yet.
I haven't tried to remove an old sender from a breaker plate either, so I'm not sure what has to be done to replace just the sender.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
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I know I've put Wells parts in cars one the years, but I can't remember if I wound up regretting it or not. Definitely not like I regretted putting a junkyard fan box in that one time!
I was hoping to get out of this for under $100, but it looks like I may have to let that go.
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any luck here-
https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=OmStX-GRK-XK5gLnxKjYDQ&q=bosch+1230500221&oq=bosch+1230500221&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzoOCAAQ6gIQtAIQmgEQ5QI6EQguELEDEIMBEMcBEKMCEJMCOgsILhCxAxDHARCjAjoICAAQsQMQgwE6AggAOg4ILhCxAxDHARCjAhCTAjoFCC4QsQM6CAguEMcBEKMCOgUIABCxAzoICC4QxwEQrwE6CwguELEDEMkDEJMCOgsIABCxAxCDARDJA1DQEFjNPWDGSGgBcAB4AIABnwGIAe4GkgEDMC43mAEAoAEBqgEHZ3dzLXdperABBg&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwjhloP1t_3sAhVlpVkKHWciCtsQ4dUDCAg&uact=5
i sold wells out of a parts store in the 90s and was not impressed. i'd chance a used dist before i did that.
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