I plan a big repair weekend next week doing some stuff I have never done. I feel confident but have a few questions about special tools that are used in Bentley. I also ask for any tips or suggestions.

1) I am replacing the tie rod end. Bentley recommends a press to push the end out. Is there a work around? Can a pickle fork do it? Also any general tips about replacing the tie-rod end?

2) I am replacing the rear springs and shocks/struts all the way around.

Bentley shows a special tool to hold front shock stationary while loosening the strut nuts. Is there a work around for this? I would imagine I can do the same thing with sockets, right? I don't have any sockets larger than 19mm will I need anything bigger than that for the shocks or any of the work mentioned on this post?

Bentley also shows a special tool to loosen the slotted flange retainer nut and one to keep the strut assembly from turning. The slotted flange wrench looks almost necessary. Is there a way to loosen that flange without that wrench?

3) I am replacing all the rear bushings including the trailing arm bushings. I am renting the trailing arm tool from Brickboard Poster Duane Hoberg, who has been very helpful. I think I can do the other bushings with sockets and vices. Are there are tips or suggestions to making this easier or safer?

Well that's it. If you read this far thanks. And if you reply thanks in advance for your help.

Joe

I can't help much other than to say that the rear bushings are NOT a Socket/vise job. I used the socket trick BUT I fortunately had a friend with a serious hydraulic press. I removed all the exess undercoating that was on everything and the press really grunted before the bushings broke loose.

The shocks and springs are a cake walk and a very obvious simple job. Just doing the bushings, you're halfway done with the shocks.

If you are doing the raer springs because you are sagging a bit, It may not be your springs. When your trailing arm Bushing is shot,it can account for about 1" of raer end droop.

You already got some killer advice my puny stuff is inserted:

"I am replacing the tie rod end. Bentley recommends a press to push the end out. Is there a work around? Can a pickle fork do it? Also any general tips about replacing the tie-rod end?"

Pretty straight forward. On some cars they just fall right out, on other a pickle fork can seem a tad violent. I use a lever action joint separator. Thing works great. Mail order from Jacque Whipme (JC Whitney). Never seen one at a car parts place.

"Bentley shows a special tool to hold front shock stationary while loosening the strut nuts. Is there a work around for this?"

There is nice generic tool for under $20 from Lisle. But sometimes a moron tightened that top nut beyond tight, rendering the tool worthless.But I got me air tools now, so piece cake. Really if you plan on making Volvos a hobby, get a compressor. Those top nuts zip right off.

"I would imagine I can do the same thing with sockets, right?"

Nope.

"I don't have any sockets larger than 19mm will I need anything bigger than that for the shocks or any of the work mentioned on this post?"

Yep. Top nut is 15/16" if someone has replaced shocks or even the decarbons. Get a set up to 25mm 1/2 drive 6 pointers.

"Bentley also shows a special tool to loosen the slotted flange retainer nut and one to keep the strut assembly from turning. The slotted flange wrench looks almost necessary. Is there a way to loosen that flange without that wrench?"

Yep pipe wrench, big channels locks, or my favorite: HUGE VICE GRIPS.

"3) I am replacing all the rear bushings including the trailing arm bushings. I am renting the trailing arm tool from Brickboard Poster Duane Hoberg, who has been very helpful. I think I can do the other bushings with sockets and vices. Are there are tips or suggestions to making this easier or safer? "

Good move. Air tools. PB Blaster.

A couple of tips about the rear bushings.

Use an inpact wrench for the rear trailing arm bushings along with Duane's tool. Even with this, those bushings are so tight, it almost bogged down the air tool. Imagine how it would be trying to do it be hand!

Place the socket over the tools bolt, then attatch the impact wrench. There is not enough clearance between the tool end and the frame to fit the socketted impact wrench in there. Took me 1/2 hour to figure that one out.

You will need a shop to press out the other bushings. I supplied my automotive machine shop with 2-piece poly bushings to the torque rods. the guy said they just slipped in without needing a press.

I don't know if it mattered, but I also maked these roda left and right, and fron and back so I'd reinstall them the same way they came off the car.

I did not replace the front trailing arm bushings not the torque rod bushings. My 240 specialist contact said he can't remember when he's ever had to to those.

My son and I did the shocks and struts all around. We bought an inexpensive ($48.95) "universal strut nut remover" which has a socket to hold the center shaft and a larger socket to fit the large nut. It really works fine. We couldn't figure out a way to hold the center shaft and still get a wrench on the large nut otherwise.

We used a spring compressor tool (be very carefull) to compress the spring and allow us to remove the top nut on the strut and swing it down and out from the top of the fender opening. You need to have the brake line loose (not disconnected) and provide support for the control arm. The spring lifts off with the compressor tool attached. We were able to loosen and remove the large nut holding the strut cartridge in the strut with a pipe wrench. Ours wasn't all that tight and the strut body didn't turn. Put in the new cartridge and tighten with the same wrench.

The hard part was getting the spring back into the strut tower. The compressor (a two part tool) left too little room to get the strut lined up with its hole in the upper mounting. We finally removed the three nuts holding the upper mounting to the strut tower ( mark the position so you can get back the same way for alignment) and put the upper mount onto the strut leaving the large nut untightened. We could then remove the compressor tool and swing the strut assembly back under the fender and line up the three bolts on top with their holes. We lined the top with the marks we made, tightened the top nut on the strut, replaced the bracket for the brake line and put the wheel back on.

The first side took two of us about 2 1/2 hours. Once we saw how to get the strut back in, we did the second side in 1/2 hour. In general, we followed the Bentley manual but it doesn't always tell you how to do something, just to do it. A second helper was really great to have.

The rear shocks are a pretty simple job after doing the struts.

"...to compress the spring and allow us to remove the top nut on the strut and swing it down and out from the top of the fender opening......getting the spring back into the strut tower. The compressor (a two part tool) left too little room to get the strut lined up with its hole in the upper mounting..."

Jim, I've done dozens of front struts on 240's, and I do 'em differently. I unbolt the top three nuts, unbolt the sway bar link, disconnect the tie rod end, and unbolt the brake line bracket from the inner fender.

Then I can push the strut down and the top swivels out. I tie it back, preventing it from flopping over and tearing the brake lines.

THEN I compress the spring, remove the top bearing, lift off the compressed spring, and attack the threaded collar at the top of the tube.

'Course, my impact wrench is central to most of this work, and my pickle fork is air-powered. I use the cheap spring compressors, about $15 from Harbor Freight -- and I'm on my third set.

It takes me about 35-45 minutes to finish a side.

Don, your are right about the tie rod ends and the end links. We did those also and I forgot to say so. Your method of lowering the strut out was the way we discovered after doing things the hard way. I wish we had been on to the great advice on this BB before we started that job! My next new job is to replace all the rear suspension bushings and I'll sure scour the archives before starting. Thanks for all your help.

Top nut for the front strut cartriges is 24 mm. ABSOLUTLEY use a proper spring compressor with saftey pins or chains. I just finished mine 2 weeks ago. Follow the Bentley manual TO THE LETTER ! DO NOT remove that top nut without the spring compressors in place !!

**Again, follow the Bentley manual**..........Mr. Tool

"...replacing the tie rod end...Can a pickle fork do it?"

Yep, particularly if you don't care about the grease boot. A pickle fork often tears the boot (but not always).

"...any general tips about replacing the tie-rod end?"

When inserting the new one, gently jack up on the tie rod end, forcing the taper into the hole. This will provide enought friction so the tapered stud is captured and won't spin as you install the nut.

Remember to get the front end aligned when you're finished with all front end work.

"...a special tool to hold front shock stationary...Is there a work around for this?"

You need a spring compressor AND practice doing this while supervised by someone experienced. These springs are dangerous -- I wouldn't tackle them alone as a first-time project. One could very literally take your hand off.

"...don't have any sockets larger than 19mm will I need anything bigger than that for the shocks or any of the work mentioned on this post?"

Yeah, I think you will. The top nut on the shock is bigger than that.

"...a special tool to loosen the slotted flange retainer nut and one to keep the strut assembly from turning..."

Such a tool does exist and does the job. You can also do it with an impact wrench by repeatedly "zapping" it with short bursts.

"...replacing all the rear bushings...tips or suggestions to making this easier or safer?"

Schedule a full day, or more, for that job. Have a helper available. An extra floor jack for repositioning the rear end is very helpful. You'll need a bench press for some of the bushings, so find one and/or make arrangements beforehand with a shop to press these bushings.