just turned 200,000 miles, and the last timing belt change was at about 98,000. i think it's about time to change! anyway, i've heard several methods mentioned here. can anyone tell me what they are and the pros and cons? this will probably get done sometime in the next month, seeing as i'm finally getting to the stalling problem today that i asked about a month ago.

oh, one other thing. when my dad and i were talking about changing the belt, he suggested (as he does for everything) impact wrench. i said that the crankshaft is brittle and might snap, and the compression of the engine won't be enough to keep it from turning. tell me what you think.
thanks

Change it ASAP!

Torque wrence is the best and easiest way to go if you have one. The crankshaft is not brittle or else it would fly apart when you accelerate onto the highway.

I've heard of the rope trick. I'm sure it works but I am uneasy about putting rope in my engine.

Starter trick has worked well for me in my past two timing belt changes at 180K and 229K. Goes like this:

1) Place a long breaker bar or 1/2 in drive ratchet on the pulley bolt. wedge the handle against the frame member. You are going to crank the engine over so position appropriately (upper driver's side or lwer passenger side).

2) Disconnect the coil to distributor wire. Don't want the engine to fire up.

3) Crank the engine just once....bolt is loose.

To reinstall, put it in gear. Have a helper hold the brake and tighten with a torque wrench. I'd also put on a dab of lock-tite.

mormit
1985 245DL 232,000mi
2002 S40 5,300mi

Done the starter trick twice piece of cake.

You can do it now or later.
scheduled maintenance is almost invariably better than repairing things when they go tango uniform.


At 200K you're also looking at radiator, thermostat, engine hoses/coolant/heater.

Do it now or wait until it overheats on the road.

I personally use a impact wrench. My wrench will produce 110 ft/lb torque at 100 psi air (I checked it with a torque wrench). I have never in my 35 years of Volvo experience (20 with the OHC engine) had a problem. I suppose if you had a wrench that would produce mega torque it would be possible to break something. I've heard of the "rope trick", but it doesn't sound like it would be good for the valves. I've also seen the pulley removed with a power handle and hammer. Just be sure that the pulley is sitting flush when you tighten it. As far as changing the belt, it's pretty straight forward. I always loosen the idler and pull it back by hand and retighten the nut to hold it out of the way. I also use the mark on the belt to position the counter shaft (this is with the crank and cam set at TDC), the counter shaft pulley has a mark on the front. After I get the belt installed and tightened, I always crank the engine before re-installing the cover, fan and belts just to make sure that everything is OK.

I'm from the old school and was taught and believe "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". The beauty of the Volvo is that it lasts and lasts and lasts. I've never had a idler to fail completely and leave me stranded. I've also never had a oil seal to leak so bad that it was pumping oil. If I notice a serious leak, I fix it. If not, I look the next time that I replace the belt.