I'm trying to do the conversion. I have a kit with the new fittings & o-rings. I have the new oil, a can of stop leak & detector & 3 cans of r134.

I wanted to start by installing the new fittings on the pump, problem is the shrader valve (if that's what they are) is in the way. Am I suppose to remove the valves in the filler ports on the pump? The instructions are very vague.

I think I'll start by bringing the car to get it evacuated. Then I'll get it home & clean out the pump. (remove the old oil if I can) I have a new expansion valve & dryer which I'll replace. As well as any of the o-rings as needed. But what else should I do? I've never done this & it's getting really hot around here.

What I was planning on was just evacuating the system, replace the fittings, orings, dryer & expansion valve. Install the oil the stop leak (precaution) & add the r134. Is that it?

TIA.

I sure can't figure it out.

If anyone's done it, please let me know.

The valve when going all the way to cold does "click" into place. Yet it still blows very warm (about 90°f)

So I figured, "how about replacing it?"

That was all well & good except the shampooing screws that hold the valve in place face INTO the heater assembly. How am I supposed to get to those things?

Also, I could care less about the capillary on the heater valve, what would happen if I just clipped it? would it forever stay hot?

Is there a valve I can install there that is ONLY adjusted by the control lever & not the capilary as well?

Also, if there is still freon in my A/C system, would that stand to reason that there are no leaks?

If so, should I still replace ALL the o-rings from the pump to hose unions? Or could I just get away with the o-rings on the dryer & expansion valve?

Is there an in-line filter in this system? What about a variable orifice valve?

TIA (again)

Also, if anyone has done the r12 to 134 conversion on a 240 with a York pump, please email me with your tale of woah.

A person named Art Benstein posted this message; http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=410638

It was EXACTLY what I was looking for. Now my heat in the cold section is indeed cold. Well, just a few degrees above ambient, which is certainly better than the 97° I was getting earlier today.

Thank you for posting that message!

Close but no cigar, yet.

>> What I was planning on was just evacuating the system, replace the fittings, orings, dryer & expansion valve. Install the oil the stop leak (precaution) & add the r134. Is that it? <<

1) Evacuate system. Gets rid of any remaining R12 in the EC way.
2) As soon at you open the system to replace things, the vacuum will suck in surrounding air. But - there seems no other way, so do it slowly.
3) Put in the new stuff, especially the O-rings, dryer and new oil.
4) Evacuate the system. Get rid of air and moisture.
5) Put in the RS134a, the amount should be 85% of the R12 amount. There should be a label on the LH fender well that tells the charge amount. Mine sez 48oz.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Is there a way to adjust the heater control valve so that cold is NO HEAT instead of "not quite as as hot as hot but still warm"?

TIA

Just imagine the other cars on the road... our 240 heaters on cold are like thiers on HOT. :) I replaced my heater core last fall... took 1 week of my 1980 244 being apart inside my garage. spent a few hours each day working on it... took my time on it. And now it has many benefits...can keep hotdogs warm on my defrost vents. :) I used a digital thermometer to see what the temp was... I am getting 161 degrees F from the vents... I would like to see any new car get that!!!
--
1980 244DL, 1982 245GL, 1987 744GLE, 1991 245SE, 1996 855GLT, 2001 V70

The cable going into the valve is adjustable. There is a set screw that holds the cable in place, so with the lever all of the way to the left, the valve should be all the way closed.

On top of that I think there is a thermostatic adjustment that is pre-set, but you may have luck playing with that.

-Steve