After I filled my tank tonight after a lovely drive in the country in my 1993 240 wagon, I went to push the trip odometer reset button and...whoops...the little button broke off into my hand. Are these easily replaced? Is this a common problem? Could anything else break off in this damn car? (The other day I went over a bump in the road and my glove box door popped open-another cheap piece of plastic to replace)

They're about $3 from Volvo. You're certainly not the first one to break that.
IT's a fragile design. That part is the same for all later 240s, but you do have a unique speedometer for the 1993-only model. It looks the same as the others but I do remember that something is unique to the final year. We had a hell of a time finding one once. Fortunately, the cluster does seem to be the same as a 1991-92 car. (With the ABS light).
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: "Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!"

If the trip reset lever broke off (as in, it just slipped off of the bar which holds it), your best bet is to remove the instrument cluster, and put it back on. This should only take you about 30-45 minutes if you've never removed the cluster before (it's pretty simple).

Now, if the reset lever physically broke (meaning you can pull the reset knob towards you through the plastic housing and have it in your hand), I have a spare in my collection which is yours for free. Email me if your reset lever physically broke. I don't think Volvo changed styles between 1986-1993.

If you don't have a tachometer in your cluster, this would be a prime time to add one, seeing how you are going to remove the instrument cluster. Check out www.ebay.com for one. Your car is prewired and it's just a matter of swapping the clock for the tach (very simple).

My question for everyone on the board is: does he have to disconnect the airbag sensor before he pulls out the cluster? My '89 doesn't have an airbag, and I simply remove the steering wheel center cover (where you press the horn) to gain more access.

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Here's a set of instructions I wrote to disassemble the cluster:

1. Make sure that the steering wheel is straight.

2. Pop off the two small gauge panels to the right of the instrument cluster (use a flathead screwdriver to just pry them off; they'll pop off). This will expose two screws.

3. Pull off the headlight knob (this might require a little force) and rheostat (dimmer) knobs to the left of the instrument cluster. Use the flathead to pry off the black panel. Let the plate and connectors dangle out of the way. You will notice that two more screws are exposed.

4. Remove all 4 screws and set them aside. On the left side, you will notice a metal bracket, remove it and put it aside.

5. You will now be able to pull the instrument cluster out. To remove the cluster, pull it out a little bit and label where each of the wires get plugged into to (very important).

6. Remove the cluster.

7. Reconnect the wires to the instrument cluster. Slide it back into place. Reinstall the 2 screws on the right, put the covers back on the gauge openings, put the metal bracket back on the left, install the 2 screws, and then put the cover and knobs back on.
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Regards,
Eric Staufer,
'89 244DL 119k
My 240 Page

I forgot to add that once you get the instrument panel out, you will need to remove the 7 or 8 screws along the edges of the instrument panel's circuit board. Pull the board up and remove it. You should be able to "snap" the trip odometer reset lever back onto the silver bar of the speedometer and then feed it through the cluster's opening, put the screws back on and then reassemble the cluster in your dash.

The problem I see with trying to reinstall the lever with the cluster in is the amount of force. By forcing it in (i.e., pushing it in and angling it up), it *may* put some extra pressure on the fragile odometer tooth gear. When you remove the cluster, you'll be able to reattach the lever by pushing "up" on the reset lever of the speedometer without really having to "reset" the mileage... less force.
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Regards,
Eric Staufer,
'89 244DL 119k
My 240 Page

Eric, your removal instructions are right on time for me. I have to order and replace my odometer gear and your instructions ease some anxiety. Thanks. And yes, Simmy, other stuff can break (and probably will), but the board is here for help and the really important stuff doesn't usually break.

You should find it pretty easy. It may seem intimidating at first, but there are only a few wires on the back of the cluster. See the picture for a general idea of where the wires (red/yellow, orange, black circle, black half-moon, clear speedo connector, optional red/grey tach wire and optional black connector plug for clock -red,green,black).

The circular black connector and half-moon connectors will probably be a little tough to remove, as it will be on there quite securely. The good news is that both of those connectors will only go on one way.

The odometer gear is a piece of cake. Remove those seven phillips-head screws on the back of the circuit board (arrowed in bright green). Then remove the circuit board from the housing. Next, remove the four speedometer screws in bright yellow. You should be able to pull the speedometer out (gently wiggle and pull if you have to).

You'll see two small flathead screws on the side of the speedo. You should be able to rest the speedo on a desk or table being supported it by the trip reset lever. Remove the two flathead screws and gently pull the smaller daughterboard from the side of the speedohead. Don't separate the board more than what you need to, as you'll see some thinner blue and black wires connected to the circuit board. Remove the disc-shaped gear and your broken tooth gear and replace the broken gear with the new one. I think you can manually test the gear by turning it by hand. The new teeth of the gear should fit through the clear plastic grooves rather nicely. Put the new gear on the round disc and put back on the shaft, resecure the two screws, and reverse the removal process. When you reinstall the speedohead, make sure that the metal pins from the cluster's circuit board are making full contact in the speedometer's openings -- if memory serves me correctly, the pins are towards the top of the unit.

If your temp gauge is acting up, check the temp compensation board... make sure it's seated properly. Be gently when you put everything back together, I've found out that a bump here and there may move the temp compensation board, causing your gauge to read high... then you have to repull the cluster and reseat it.

Let me know if you have any questions. I've got the whole process down to 13 minutes. lol.
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Regards,
Eric Staufer,
'89 244DL 119k
My 240 Page

Eric,

Do you happen to have a part number for the odometer drive gear? My volvo dealer (over the phone) said no internal parts were available, and mine (and my spare) both have the missing tooth problem!

Thanks,

Gary

The picture:

If it doesn't show up, visit at:
http://web.tampabay.rr.com/estaufer/4sale/cluster-back.jpg

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Regards,
Eric Staufer,
'89 244DL 119k
My 240 Page