92 940 GL 191K (all original equipment in FI system)

1. I examined both relays for solder cracks and found none. Then, when I ran the diagnostics in mode three which activates the various FI components, you can hear and/or see both relays clicking (contacts closing). Can I assume that the relays are OK?

2. Reading other posts, someone said that if the Crank Position (RPM) Sensor is bad, there will be no spark. When I ground a plug wire to the block there is a spark when you crank the engine. From this, can I conclude that the Crank Position Sensor is OK?

3. I cannot hear the fuel pump when turning the ignition on, nor can I hear it when I jumper terminal 30 and terminal 87/2 from the main relay recepticle. I have listened from the driver's seat, from the open gas cap, and from on top of the fuel tank after removing the metal access cover in the trunk. Neither of the FI system related fuses is blown. And there are 12 Volts between 30 and 87/2. From all of this, can I conclude that the fuel pump has failed?

4. When I first ran the diagnostics, I got 111 (no error). A couple of weeks later (the car had still not started even once) I got an Idle Sensor signal error (332 or something like that can't remember the exact code). Why didn't that code show up before? And, if the idle sensor is bad, would it prevent the car from starting? Could a bad fuel pump indirectly cause an idle sensor signal error?

This has been going on since Thanksgiving Day. At 15 minutes a week, it's pretty challenging to get it diagnosed, especially for an unexperienced (inept) guy like me. Thank goodness I can drive the 850 to work for a time (love that turbo) but it saddens me to see the 940 so helpless and getting no closer to the 200K milesone. Can you folks help me get it back on the road?

I don't know if this thread is a re-post or continuation of a previous thread, but I'll throw in one more thought. Open the oil filler cap, crank the engine and see if the cam rockers move -if not then it's a broken timing belt.
--
Dave -not to be confused with a real expert, just goofing around at this

1. "both" relays? FI and what else?

2. Yes, but at 191K, the RPM sensor isn't reliable.

3.------"From all of this, can I conclude that the fuel pump has failed?"

Sure looks like it, if the 30 to 87/2 jumper didn't do it. The only other thing I see from looking at the diagram would be a "longer jump" from Fuse 1 to Fuse 11 (ie from before 30 to after 82/7).

All that's left untested is the Fuel Pump grounding point. My '93 diagram shows it being under the plastic "threshold plate" (?) for the trunk opening—on the left side, about 8" from the corner where it goes vertical.

That would really be the last thing to check, as I see it.

I'd ignore the 223 Idle Air Valve(?) code for now.

Bruce






--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67

"1. "both" relays? FI and what else?"

The main FI relay in the center console fuse/relay panel AND the auxiliary "radio supression" relay located in front of the right strut in the engine compartment.

"All that's left untested is the Fuel Pump grounding point. My '93 diagram shows it being under the plastic "threshold plate" (?) for the trunk opening—on the left side, about 8" from the corner where it goes vertical."

I am assuming the threshold plate is the plastic around the bottom and sides of the trunk opening? Forgive my ignorance, but what do I do to check the "grounding point"? I am also assuming that it will be a wire or cable bolted to the chassis at that location. Is that how I will recognize it?

ALSO
I just did a google search for the fuel pump and volvoworld.com had a "repro" pump for $150 (significantly better than the $405 OEM part quoted by the local dealer). Do you have any experience with volvoworld? Any recommendations on where to get the part?

I really appreciate your response, thanks!

Yes, the horizontal plastic trim is fastened by 4 or 5 "Torx" head screws. Once it's off you should see a black (?) wire fastened by a bolt pointing downward, near the corner. It will be either a 10mm hex or possibly another Torx head.

When you find it (Them? There may be more than one.) disconnect it and scrape the mating surfaces clean, then reconnect and see what happens.

It also ocurred to me that we're overlooking the connections at the pump itself. But I have no experience to offer in this area. Perhaps you could start a new "Pump Specific" thread, asking for info on:

• Access (thru the trunk, I'm afraid)
• Connections, electrical and pipes
• Brands, Sources, and Prices, etc (don't go by price alone, but $405 is too much, IMO)

There may be info on some of this in the FAQ. The 940 is still rather new to me, so I haven't much experience beyond the B230 and FI systems.
--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67

Thanks for the response and information. Good idea to start another thread, I'll do that. Also, just curious what does the -NA stand for when you list your 93 940? And also what is IMO?

"NA" meand Normally Aspirated (not a turbo) I just picked it up from other Posters.

"IMO" is Internet Speak for In My Opinion. Sometimes with an "H" for Humble. Again, it's short-hand I picked up in the last few months, being a 'net newbie. Check out—www.acronymfinder.com. They do abbreviations too.

Good Luck
--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67