She's up on jacks back at the shop - the replacement shocks and b&g springs took about 2.5 hours to install in the rear, now I'm stuck on the struts. I've fabricated my own IPD-style strut nut tool out (identical in design for just $2.99!) but am having trouble getting the coil/strut assembly to clear the fender for removal/replacement. (I have access to an air-impact gun too)

Do I need to compress the front springs to clear the fender??

I'll be headed in to the shop soon, and need all the help i can get!
Thanks in advance

M.C.

You may have to jack the car up higher.

Are you going to disconnect the brake lines and bring the assembly to the bench or change the struts while assembly is still connected to car?
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1990 240 Sdn 277K,tach,strut brace,turbo sway 1990 240 Wgn M47II 157K,tach,strut brace,poly bushings,IPD sways

All four corners of the car are on jacks about 2' off the ground - I'd like to do the work with the arm and strut "holster" attatched to the car if at all possible (i'd rather not have to bleed the brakes).

There must be more than one way to tackle this project, because Bentley, Chilton, Haynes and IPD don't seam to follow the same steps... I'll only have about a 6 hour window to tackle this tonight, so I want to get it right.

disconnecting the bolt on the interior of the fender for the brake lines didn't seam to do much; the brake lines had as much play before i removed it as they do now.... not sure what the purpose for the bolt was, but it's off now.

anyway - I appreciate all the advice i can get.

M.C.

I did the job with the struts in place for the same reason...I didn't want to bleed the brakes. Two feet is plenty high. Remove the front stabilizer bar completely. Separate the tie rod ends from the hubs with a tie rod/pitman arm puller so the rubber boots or threads aren't damaged. Mark the alignment position on top of the towers. Loosen but don't remove the top stut nut with an impact wrench. Compress the spring. Remove the nuts holding the top strut bearing pivot. Push down on strut with your hands and the "A" frame with your foot until the top of the strut can be swung out from under the fender. Finish removing the strut nut with the impact wrench. Remove the top pivot and spring. Use a pipe wrench and channel locks to remove the spanner nut. Pull out the old cartridge and install the new. Be sure the spacer at the bottom stays in place. If you're not replacing the top pivots, pop out the bearing shield with an awl and grease the steel balls and re-insert the shield. Put the spring back on (still compressed) and the top pivot. Tighten the top strut nut with an impact wrench. Swing the strut assembly back under the fender and up into the tower. Align the alignment marks made prior to disassembly and tighten the top pivot nuts. Remove the spring compressor and install the tie rod end, brake line clip and stabilizer bar. As you remove the spring compressor, be sure the ends of the springs (the ends of the heavy spring wire) stay in the seats, both top and bottom. At least on an 83, the brake line clip must be unbolted from the inner fender to have enough slack so I'm not sure what's up with that on yours. I'm sure I missed a few important points so stay on your toes and don't consider this "cook book" instructions. jp

I don't envy have to do that job in 6 hours. I'm on my third week and not done yet. Spent time clean and painting with POR 15,repacking wheel bearings, new brake hoses, new bushings, new sway bars, new ball joints and rebuilding calipers.

Here is what I did. Double check everything I say from another source to be safe. I loosened the strut bolt just a tad with a 24mm impact wrench. VERY IMPORTANT don't completely unscrew the main strut bolt unless the spring is compressed enough to remove any force on the spring seat. Funny thing when I removed the assembly all I did was step down on the control arm and the strut mount bolts cleared the fender. My spring compressor was rated for use with an impact wrench. This was a major time saver. When re-installing the strut mount bolts didn't want to clear the fender. Having not torqued the ball joints and with no brake lines connected I went straight up with the assembly using a floor jack into tower and then connected ball joints. This confused me a bit why I had to do this going in but not out.

I'm really curious how you like them B&G springs/Bilsteins on your Wagon. Did you get the 98-1-012 Wagon springs? When you get a chance can you tell me what the printed numbers are the fronts and rear? Where did you get them? Got a set for my Sedan and may just get a set for my Wagon before I finish up. I'm not sure why I ordered Sedan springs while I was working on the Wagon. Gotta like that epoxy red. Some people like to get the reinforcing strut plate when using lowering springs.
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1990 240 Sdn 277K,tach,strut brace,turbo sway 1990 240 Wgn M47II 157K,tach,strut brace,poly bushings,IPD sways

Don is right, compressing the spring makes no difference in clearance. When the brake line bracket is unbolted and the swaybar link is unlinked and the tie rod end is untied step down hard on the control arm, protect the fender lip and swing that strut assembly free. THEN compress the spring.

You will need a spring compressor to replace the strut cartridges. In case you're not aware of it, Autozone loans tools including spring compressors for strut assemblies. You put up a deposit to cover the cost of the tool and get it back when the tool is returned in good condition. You don't need to purchase any parts to get the tool loan. If you compress the spring before swinging the strut out of the tower, less clearance is needed. jp

I've pushed the a-arm down as far as it'll go, and i still need about 5" of clearance - I've got the help of Haynes, Bentley, Chilton, IPD and you all here at the brickboard. There's no way this project can defeat me! I'll try the compressors now - thanks for the advice - results will follow this evening.

M.C.

To get the necessary clearance, compress the spring down to about 12" or a little less. To get this much compression, attach the hook blocks as close to the top and bottom as possible. I had to use a 1/2" x 2" pipe nipple on the threaded bolts below the bottom hook block to get enough compression with the AutoZone compressor. Remember, perseverance can overcome just about everything. jp

You do not need to compress the spring to clear the fender, but you may need to disconnect the sway bar link so the lower arm can pivot low enough.

Do NOT remove the top nut until you compress the spring.

I've found that the top nut can be zip-zip-zip-zipped off using an impact wrench.
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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)