First a few comments on your observations:

1) "I think the fuel injection relay is good because I smelled gas and I know that sends power to the ignition system."
Not true. The only relationship of the FI relay to the Ignition is that the whole FI system is dead if it doesn't get timing pulses from the Ignition CU.
The relay doesn't control or affect the ignition in any way.

2) "I didn't replace the 25 amp fuse holder but the contacts are relatively clean.
Tommorrow I will just cut it out and replace with a sealed fuse holder."
Don't overlook what 20 years can do to the Battery end of the wire feeding the 25 amp fuse. A loose or dirty, corroded terminal at battery +, or brittle, corroded wire strands are known trouble sources that can still exist after splicing in a new fuse holder.

3) "It has a new Bosch super coil"
I'm not sure what a "super" coil is, but unless the Bosch number on the bottom is 0-221-122-345, it's not the correct one for your Volvo/Chrysler ignition system.

The Bentley 240 manual has some info on checking the V/C Ignition CU, starting on page 280-8. If you try it, be aware that Step 6 (280-9) ends with a mistake. The word "connected" should be disconnected, referring to the jumper in Fig. 15.

If the ICU test checks out (initiating one spark and a brief fuel pump operation), based on a "simulated" signal from the Hall switch in the distributor, I can also post a method to test the Hall Switch itself, with everything connected.

P.S. Have you tried bypassing both the 25A fuse and the FI relay, with a jumper wire from Fuse 6 Hot side (Left) to the Fuse 4 "input" (LEFT) contact?

The pumps should run immediately, so try starting and see what happens. If still no start, it's most likely an ignition problem.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.