Just because the relay clicks doesn't mean anything other that the computer knows it is cranking. That is a good thing.

When the relay turns on, it fires the pumps, ignition system and injectors, sort of all at once.

If either of the pumps is stuck and not pumping then you are stuck with a non starting car.

You can choose either of the below to do first.

You are concerned about spark you can try this.

You can check for spark by pulling the wire to the distributor and prop it next to a strut tower bolt about a quarter inch a way. Crank the car and you should see a spark fire day or night from your view point of the driver’s seat.

Now for a fuel check.

If you want to same some time, IMHO, then I would jumper the left side of the fuse clips to each other. I think it should be 4 to 6 on your year car. It is 4 to 7 on a 91's. I'm not sure when it changed from 86 on.

The both pumps should run because this is bypassing the relay. If the main pump under the car does not run, try smacking the holding tray with a hammer. You may have a worn pump and the brushes are sticking.

If the tank is below a half tank the tank pump may not be feeding the large pump. On a full tank or very close, the main pump can pull fuel, if the suction hose is air tight in most cases.

So, after doing the jumping thing, the car can be started because the fuel should be there. Turning the key to start the car will close the relay and then you remove the jumper. The car should still run. If it doesn't the relay is bad!

Using the jumper wire make this all, a one person achievement.

When I change out a pump and filter I use the jumper to check for leaks on the filter bolts and lines. When you’re under a car or one that is on a lift, it is hard to scramble back to the driver seat. I use a switch with extra long leads to run things from below.

Anyway, this is what I like to do as a first thing to rule out whether on the road or in my humble little shop.


First time I've ever wrote this up, so I hope I didn't "jump" a step.
Phil