You are right by saying yikes! I was really afraid I was putting too much out there to step on! (:-ouch!
You taught me the new word though, "verdigris." Never looked for anything else but gunk or goo after it showed up in grease or I sprayed it with something.

I did not know you don't actually own one of those LED testers. My bad!
I did not know about it reading that low of voltage through a wet finger either.

I was under the impression that they were made because they were safer to use for the reasons you site around our ecu's.
The color of light change was suppose to be another major benefit over an incandescent, I thought.

I used the word "impedance" in my post. Was that a bad word in relation to a voltmeter that are rated in Meg ohms? I think I messed that up too!

I'm pretty sure I understand how a alternator works with the exciter wire.

I figured out way back he was messing around with bad wiring from hell! The whole test light thing just made all the black wires totally confusing to me and I told him so!

I'm glad he finally got the point and reworked the harness wire by wire!

This resent My post was an attempt to explain the two ways the rotor is controlled from the key on through the cluster lights and instruments.
He complained how they went wacky! Turns out that the Harness issues "Ran" the thread a lot longer than it should have. I think the test light added on its own layer of difficulty with his pluses and negatives popping up and his lack of knowing what was suppose to do what.


My idea, a couple of times, was trying explain the alternator from startup activation, to actually becoming, a self feeding and self regulated device. How it works to maintain its the charging system irregardless of that warning side of the "idiot" light says.

We, in the know, like our dash voltmeters for giving real time updates of what is doing what, when.
I hope he gets one in the dash and in his tool box.

All is well, if we learn and I'm happy with that!

Thanks Art!

I need to post my latest endeavor on the board.

That is, if any one hates to use the ignition switch key to operate their electric window every time. You know, to move them up or down or just a little bit to clean the part in the rubber seals.

It makes them more like the manual window cars, more user friendly.

Plus I figured out a small modification for the third brake light cover, so they will quit cracking if you change the bulb. It involves a dremel tool or a small hand file. A rainy day on the bench or table project.

Phil