Rick:

My understanding is that the M/C should be "bench bled" first. I've managed to do this on several cars by going to the pick and pull and getting two metal brake lines for the fittings, cutting off the metal tubing about two or three inches from the fittings, getting some rubber or plastic tubing to slip over the ends (using some tiny hose clamps) and aiming the tubing back into the M/C reservoir. Then, just fill with fresh fluid and pump the pedal (don't go more than halfway or so, or the internal seals of the new M/C will be damaged) until bubbles stop appearing in the tubing.

After this, the bench bleed lines can be removed and the actual brake lines attached. Some fluid will run out, but if you work quickly, not much will be lost. Then bleed the rest of the system following Bentley or Haynes procedures, which I believe call for starting at the furthest point and working back toward the M/C, making it RR/LR/RF/LF. The non-ABS 240 sequence is substantially different since there are three bleeder fittings on each of the front calipers. I would strongly recommend that you get a Motive Products pressure bleeder (www.motiveproducts.com). It makes this job so much easier and eliminates the need for an assistant to pump the brakes (and possibly damage the new M/C if they push down too far).