/// What you did was take a large bubble at the new master cylinder and by attempting to bleed the system you divided and put parts of the bubble in all sections of your system.

If you can, switch to ATE blue. It will tell you when a line is clear because the color change. It's too late to use the difference in old fluid, new fluid.

New metal cylinders will have small bubbles stick to the interior parts and dislodge at random times. This is why you prebleed. To dislodge all those potential bubbles. DO IT NOW There is no other sure way to clear small bubbles from the master cylinder, you won't lose any fluid.

When you attach the system lines from the car brakes, bleed those fittings too. Pump up the system, open, then close, both fittings just as you would bleed each wheel. The purpose is to prevent that possible bubble at the joint being forced through the system.

Start at the wheel closest to the master cylinder and bleed both sets of brakes. Move wheel by wheel further from the master cylinder. Just like you did before. Nothing wrong with that method.

IT MAY HELP TO ALLOW THE CAR TO SIT FOR AN HOUR BEFORE YOU START. Allow bubbles to rise to the top. STOP WHEN THE PEDAL IS HARD You are only trying to remove air you introduced. If it is in just one line the pedal will become hard as you clear that line. If the car has sat and the bubbles are actually in the calipers just opening each bleed screw and allowing a dribble to escape will clear the air. This will not (repeat NOT) work if there is still a bubble in a brake line or valve. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry and put a bubble back in at the master cylinder. This is gravity bleeding. I use it all the time since I work alone.