Be sure to specify the grease-zerked model of your replacement U-joint, usually indicated by a "Z" following the part number. Most U-joints fail because they eventually run dry, and you don't want to redo this, esp. when the add'l. cost is nothing or less than a buck. I believe you can retrofit a zerk into an existing unzerked joint, but this requires drilling and tapping, and I'd wonder about the steel bits finding their way into the joint.