Yes -- you have to take out the radiator and grill and if
there is any air conditioning stuff that too.

It wasn't that hard, actually. Use a magnet on a stick,
pull the lifters all up until they stick. On a healthy
motor, the lifters will just pull right straight up and
not get hung up on anything. When they are worn, the face
that rides on the cam mushrooms out. So, if you have a
worn lifter, a good way to test it without pulling anything
else out is to just see if it comes out easily. If it does,
you can inspect things and if it doesn't you may (probably)
have problems.

Anyhow -- use the magnet, pull up all the lifters. If
things are worn, they will hang up and not fall down. One
by one use the magnet to rotate them until the hole lines
up with the place where the cam went. Push them down the
rest of the way onto the board (a rounded narrow piece of
sheet metal would probably be best but I just used cardboard
with tape on it, the tape was to keep the cardboard from
disolving from the oil and stuff). A wire coat hanger
folded over once with a barb at the end was enough to push
through the hole in the lifter. Once the wire is there, you
can push the lifter down the rest of the way (remove the
board). The wire keeps it from falling into the sump and
you can pull it out with the magnet (while still skewered
on the coat hanger). You get lots of practice for the hard
lifters (the back 3) on the first bunch... I don't know if
I'd try this with a B30. Don't forget a flash light and a
helper helps (one looks in the other rotates the lifter
with the magnet).

It probably takes longer to do it this way than with
pulling the head. I understand that volvo made a device
that grabs onto the crown of the lifter and then you can
just yank it out with a slide hammer or similar device.

I didn't want to pull the head. After all, while the head's
off I should send it to a machine shop. And while I'm doing
that I should redo the bearings and hey I can pull the crank
and redo the rings and I should probably send the block to
a machine shop to hone the cylinders and now that the engine
bay is all nice I should fix the clunk in the drive shaft and
reupholster the seats and fix that crack in the dashboard so
it matches the seats and why not paint the car while I've
got it all apart?
chris