Random thoughts -

The other fuse to check is that miserable 25-amp blade-style fuse under the hood, along driver's side inner fender. I had one test OK for continuity, but it could not pass enough current to handle the load. If yours looks melted or corroded, replace the fuse holder and the fuse.

If you run a jumper wire between the two fuel pump fuses, you should hear the fuel pumps running (ignition key in ON position).

Fuel filter swap is straightforward, just use two wrenches (one on the hex on the filter, one on the banjo fitting) and have a couple of rags handy to catch the gas that will spill. Use new copper washers when fitting the new filter.

When was the last time you checked your distributor cap and rotor? And coil and plug wires? Make sure coil wire is fully seated in dist cap and coil... had a no-start once because of that!

Last thing I'll mention is that if you've got less than half a tank, you may be suffering from the common leak-in-the-pickup-tube malady. A leak develops in the fuel pickup line going to the in-tank pump, and the line is exposed when the fuel level reaches half or less (or if you're parked on a hill). However, this usually results in a power loss rather than a no-start, but if you've exhausted everything else then it's something to consider.