We were thinking of using some ATF for a little while(not being driven, but just sitting there idling or whatever and then draining it) to clean out the gunk... I don't know how well the regular oil is going to do for getting out that sludge and crap up under and on the valvetrain.

We'll check the ignition system tomorrow at Shayne's house. As for the valves, i guess i could check that... Point gap, i guess i could probably check that too by myself, considering that I think I know what to check. How do I adjust it? I'll figure it out...

And then on the carbs, first I'll give you some more info on how they've been acting... The car is doesn't drop down to idle fast(partially because of the heavier flywheel and such), which i've heard can be attributed to using oil in the carbs that's too thick, but i'm not going to worry about that right now because I know it's fine with the ATF in it... It seems to be worse when coming off of the highway, or from sustained higher rpms. Also, it's not really noticeable, well, not compared to my weber, but there's a slight hesitation/surging from about 1/8th throttle to 3/16th throttle(as if i'm that exact, but you get the point), so when cruising in that throttle range, i can feel it surge a little bit, and when at lower rpms and accelerating from a stop in that throttle range, it's kinda sputtery, not smooth like it is in all other areas of throttle application(well, haven't tried full throttle yet... =D). And then there's the slight popping when i take it out of gear and let it drop down to idle, it doesn't really seem like the popping associated with a hot cam or such, but it's there. And it's very discreet when just idling sometimes, but who knows what'll happen when we get the ignition sorted out, and check the compression in each cylinder. That's about all that I can think of that may be carb related, and that all makes it sound worse than it is, because it really is awesome, period. =D

And so what do you guys think about the oil leakage? I'm thinking of getting the neoprene(or silicone whatever it is) seals for both front and rear, would that take care of the major leak problem in the rear? And yeah i know i need the matching housings.

OH and I adjusted the valves so that I can put .015 in pretty easily, a little harder to move with the .016, and really hard to move around with the .017 in, and impossible to put the .018 in. Well, they aren't all exactly that way, but pretty close, I wasn't too anal about it. The noise has subdued a decent bit, but it's still there, i think it's just the normal sounds now though, we'll see what Shayne says tomorrow. And I'll double check the valves on the third cylinder.
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Kyle