I just finished replacing my front struts, rear shocks, ball joints, strut mounts, and strut anchors. I'll pass my thanks to all the Brickboarders who helped by passing on their own experiences, especially Dave Shannon and David Armstrong.

My lessons and comments:

Getting the top strut nut off was harder than it had to be.
I bought the IPD special tool for this http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=1416&NodeID=4504&RootID=629
and it worked for one of the nuts although it was a pain. The problem is that if you have struts with a "double d" (essentially a circle with 2 flat sides) fitting it is difficult to keep the strut from turning while loosening the top nut. Lisle and snap on sell sockets that will fit this fitting. I didn't use these but the Lisle looks like the right size, unsure about the Snap on. The replacement Bilsteins have a Torx fitting and solved that problem for the future. Putting the nut on was a breeze as the torque values is low...15ft/lbs as I recall.

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=200
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=12160&group_ID=1632&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

I ended up using an impact driver for the other nut. It is the key to happiness and I should have done this first! It worked great and my fear of the strut rotating and causing damage to the rotor or other parts was unfounded. The nut just backed right off.

I had the IPD gland nut tool.
http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=1710&NodeID=5309&RootID=629
It is a well made piece of gear, but on my 1/2 wrench was too big to fit between the spring to loosen the gland nut. If you don't want to remove the strut tube from the car I suggest this tool:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41243
10 bucks from Harbor Freight. It is sturdy, works beautifully, and fits between the spring easily.

The Bilstein touring class struts were about 3/16" taller (no spacers in my tube) than my old OEM Volvo units. This resulted in the gland nut leaving a few threads showing once tightened. Not a big deal according to Bilstein. It did result in 2 washers being needed under the top strut nut to ensure no "clunking" once the unit was reassembled.

I replaced the ball joints with TRW units from FCP. I also used new strut anchors. I had to but these from the local Volvo dealer. Using new strut anchors kept me from having to press the old ball joint out of my old strut anchor. After I pulled the ball joint off I was glad I replaced the anchors. Lots of nasty looking corrosion in mine. (162K miles) I used all new nuts/bolts, the ball joints came with new ones, the rest I got locally. I used thread lock (red) on fasteners that were not nylon lock nuts.

When driving the car afterward everything was solid and no obvious need for alignment was detected. I do have a set of Sway Bars and poly bushings (IPD) to do this coming week and I plan to get an alignment done. Cheaper than a set of tires if there are unseen/unfelt alignment issues.

Feel free to question me if I covered something poorly!

Cheers,

Ron Kirkland