You will need more gaskets. To replace the cam and lifters, the head needs to come off, which means a head gasket and an intake/exhaust gasket at a minimum. You'll also need a gasket for the timing cover, and it would be a great time to replace that front main seal, upgrade to rubber if it is currently felt.

Typically, you will also need to replace the thrust plate that bolts to the block behind the gear - many of them are brass, and the back side of the timing gear often isn't as smoot as it should be, and the plate gets worn. Once it gets looser, the cam will clunk back and forth at idle. If it truly looks unworn, reuse it. The steel crank gear hardly ever needs to be replaced - it lasts through several fiber gears at least.

Cam bearings can't be replaced with the motor in the car, but luckily enough they hardly ever need to be replaced.

Might as well replace the radiator hoses too - unless they are relatively new. You'll have the radiator out so it's just as easy as putting the old ones back on. Strongly consider going ahead and having the valves done while the head is off - if you don't have hardened exhaust seats they might recede and require a head pull in the not too distant future. Might as well leverage some of the labor involved with R&R'ing the head now if needed. It's also a good time to take a good hard look at the condition of the cylinder bores - feel how much of a ridge is at the top, look for irregular wear marks from broken rings, etc.

PS - what kind of 'rally' cam is it anyhow? I've had an 'R' grind cam in my PV's motor before (not the most aggressive R-sport cam but just one notch below the 'S' IIRC) and it idled just fine. That was with DCOE's, however, perhaps they handle reversion at idle better than SU's do.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.