I knew that calling it "juice" would get your attention :)

The spade terminals are not particularly "loose" but they will move if I apply pressure. They are definitly not "wiggly." It seems that I may be in the market for a new fusebox.

Important quesiton, will a swem fusebox have "normal" fuse clearances? That is, will the topmost fuse be of a standard width, or will I still have to deal with the tiny little 25 amp jobs?

Anyway, if you've followed the whole thread you probably noticed that I switched to another volvo alternator. It's new, unusued, but lacks any lables. (NO, it's not a SEV/Motorola) It's supposedly for a 1975 245 (like my "other" one) but the hookups on the back were different and clearances were a bit different as well. I ended up using 3-4 heavy washers to bring the pulley back into line with the belts.

It gives me almost 14 volts at idle with no additional accessories running.
If everything, except the signals are going (reverse lights and brakes notwithstanding) I get a good 12.5 or so volts. Adding Brake lights, Reverse, Signals will pull it down to 12 and the signals will pull it below if everything is going. Then I can see the amp light faintly glowing.


What I'm wondering is if I'm seeing lower-than-normal reading at the volitmeter because the circuit is installed on the fused side of just one circuit.

My old unit gave a good 14-19 volts at alternator and regulator, but it's reading in the cabin was woefully low (wasn;t discharging, however). This new alternator if kicking out quite a bit more in the cabin, but I've not yet tested it at the alternator itself. The plugs are difficult to reach due to the new configuration.




--
1967 P220 Amazon, 1972 145S, 1976 245 DL, 1983 245 GL, 1986 745 GLE, 1990 745 GL, 1995 945....
You mean to tell me that Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?