"The timing gears are installed with the marks pointing at each other. This is No. 4 compression stroke. A much confusing fact."

Ahah! That explains after being careful in the reassembly of my PV's engine I *still* ended up with the distributor drive approximately 180 degrees off! I just assumed the timing marks were on #1's firing position. I put the drive in before the head, so I woudn't have noticed the valves being open.

The crank sleeves can be difficult to extract - you need a sharp chisel that can exploit the split between the gear and the sleeve. But 99% of the time, if you are using another fiber gear, you can just leave the crank gear alone. It seems to outlast several fiber gears at least. Even if a fiber gear destroyed itself the steel crank gear is usually unharmed. Unless you are putting aluminum or steel cam gears on and HAVE to replace that crank gear, or if the crank gear looks worn or rough (could happen) then just leave it alone.

I would *STRONGLY* urge you to use a new fiber gear, and not reuse the old. Unless you enjoy hte process of removing and replacing the gear, and want to do it again in the near-to-mid future.

And last but not least, it is practically impossible to replace a cam with the head on. The only slightly fathomable ways would be to flip the engine upside down, and lower the lifters slightly off the cam, but not allow them to fall completely out of their bores, before extracting the cam. I was going to say it was impossible, but thought of that klugey idea. But really, you need to pull the head and remove the lifters. And I'm sure that almost everyone will tell you that using new lifters on a new cam is an *EXCEEDINGLY* good idea. An even better idea than using a new fiber cam gear.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.