Idler bushing is brand new as are all ball joints and bushings. I think tie-rods are new also, but don't recall for sure... I'll check these for free play. Alignment after rebuild was set to alignment-machine-recommended-spec. I should pull the record and compare with Volvo FSM alignment specs....

With car at standstill, there's about 1.5"-2" freeplay at steering wheel rim, more than I want to tolerate. Pretty sure all the "lost motion" is in the steering box and I will double check that when I find someone to wiggle the steering wheel for me while I watch underneath.

A few months ago I snugged the adjuster screw on top of the box. With locknut backed off, the adjuster screw came up against a firm stop, which is where I left it without applying hardly any torque. The manual says to check turning torque with steering box out of the car, which is obviously not very practical.

Is it ok to snug that adjuster up again, or is that asking for trouble. I'm afraid that if the thing is badly warn right at dead-ahead position, then it might end up way too tight when steering wheel is turned. I don't have much experience with these recirculating ball boxes. Do you 140-160 guys regularly tweek in your steering boxes to take up slack?

Appreciate your comments !
Later,
Al
* 145S wandering all over the highway...
* Check out my Datsun 260Z steering rack, e.g. 400k hard miles on original rack and still going strong...