3700 dollars and it still does not start!! Would it be safe to say the mechanic that worked on it was not familiar with Volvos? Or maybe autos in general but that degenerates and describes a bunch of mechanics. Oops, did that come out of me???

With that much previously invested, I'd return to basics and some time before spending anything else. After all, the auto is free, and instead of throwing more money at it, use it to learn a little about the systems in general. If you damage something during a test, (doubtful) and the auto does not run, (current status quo) you are out nothing but gained some knowledge that will help with your current Volvo. Unless this is the first.

Since the 89 has OBD, see if any codes are left in the system. Maybe not since probably a few batteries have been swapped in and out over time but if there are any codes, they may lead you to a simple solution.

It can also test basic systems and provide info even with a no run status. See Bentley manual page 241-7 Testing ECU inputs and 241-8 for testing outputs.

If it's the EZ-116K system, you can also pull ignition system fault codes.

Other basics require a few simple cheap items. An inductive spark tester to check for spark, ohmeter, a Bently manual.

First I'd check would be fuses. ALL of them come out, are checked, tabs and sockets cleaned and fuse replaced if needed. Under hood 25 amp blade fuse would get a real good cleaning and if really grundgy replaced.

Fuses 4, 6, 13 would get extra scrutiny.

Then I'd clean the grounds on the intake manifold, the negative connection between the battery and block, and a few other ground points for fuel pumps and etc. Bentley will guide you.

The following tests indicate what should happen. If it does not, time to dig deeper. Bentley and this forum are great resources.

Checking the start sequence. Key in then on should produce one click from the system-fuel relay. Engaging starter should produce a second click. First click sets up the whole system, second click is only possible if a SIGNAL indicates the engine is rotating.

Cranking motor should cause spark. Cheap spark tester keeps you from getting bit by 50,000 volts or potential damage to system from too great an arc.

If no spark, remove top screw on timing cover and distributor cap. Pull forward on the cover and be sure everything is turning. Basic but at this point something was missed. Bring crank pulley to TDC, distributor wiper should point to notch on distributor body, camshaft pulley dot at 12:00.

Cranking should also cause fuel pump to run. Best way is get under and feel, listen just in front of rear axle on left side.

No fuel pump but second click from relay. Examine and resolder relay, or bypass relay only to test. This not in any manuals but from this board.

Spark but no run and timing belt OK? Remove one or more plugs. Dry or wet? Dry no fuel. Wet too much fuel.

I'd also check wiring to sensors under the intake manifold. Only because with that amount of money previously spent, if a sensor was changed by someone not familiar with the connectors they will get them crossed.

The ignition switch itself. They have been know to fail, and the more keys that bounced around underneath the more likehood of damage.

I could go on but then I'd have to charge you something. Hopefully you get the idea. Other than an initial outlay for some basic testing tools, trouble shooting is fairly simple and straight forward. When I do A, B should happen. If it does then on to C which causes D, etc.

Duane